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^^ Done!

GAME ON. I got a few hours of riding/testing in today.

Found out earlier in the week the drive sprocket is a 525 width vs. 520. Since I have a quick change rear setup I was able to get a rear sprocket for cheap and bought a new chain. A 520 drive sprocket was pretty tough to find..

Today I got the new belts in, the case to swing arm shim in, rearsets, 454 quick-change rear sprocket, and 454 chain.

Those 475cc injectors were too big and I was getting 10.0 A/F at idle. It would lean out when I reved it up but even at full temp, I needed to have the choke pulled slightly to idle. BUT I found out that my power commander does work below 4500 rpm. that 4500 rpm thing was for closed loop sensor bikes (with O2 sensor). Since my bike doesn't have one, I'm able to tune the whole RPM range. It kind of sucks I didn't need to buy the new injectors but I'm going to leave them in as a fail safe for the PC3. I know I can run the bike with the larger injectors and that's less dangerous than 17+ A/F.

The plan is now to slowly dial in the fueling. It's relatively close with a little down scaling but could use some work.

I'm going to a Norton meet Sunday and I'll snap some pics then.

MattStrike wrote:I know this is off-topic, but the primary pipes on my bike have a little rust on them. Originally they had a finish that was similar to a black chrome, same as on this muffler:

That looks like mid-80's Honda V45 or V65?

Yes, I have a V45 Sabre.

Put about 80 miles on it so far and it runs great. I pushed it almost to the edge of the tire and it feels the same weight wise as the 800, just way more torquey.

A clutch cover is in the mail.

That Rocks!

A little update on this.

It's been running good with the 1000. I think I put about 3-4k on it. It would have been much more had I not broke my heel last year..

I got a guard for a open pressure plate and eventually the mild steel springs started to rust. So, the pressure plate and springs got upgraded recently. I picked up a billet top triple and clip-ons to get the ergonomics a little more aggressive. The clip-ons have a decent rise. So, they're low but not too low.

The only two things I have left on the chopping block for this is rebuild the S2R1000 forks I picked up (stiffer) and do some welding to make my old 800's aftermarket exhaust work on the 1000.

Might as well mini update this thing too. I replaced the clutch, added some frame sliders and took this for my first track run. The track club that runs the track day does an intro class for beginners like myself. It was amazing and I can't wait to go back.

I did another track day a couple weekends back. I think I did about 5 sessions total. I was back to where I left off after the 1st session. From there, I slowly got more comfortable and consistent as the day went on. The only thing that sucks at this point is not being able to catch a few people on the track's long straight away but wanting to hit the turns faster. In my beginner heat you can't pass unless it's a straight away, which makes complete sense. But, I'll go from 130 to 40 instead of 70 or so into the first turn. lol. I learned how to brake late once I knew the person's turning speed. Either way it's so good that it's ruining riding on the street for me.

Looks like a really good time!

95naSTA wrote:... it's so good that it's ruining riding on the street for me.

I can just imagine, the street has to be pretty boring after hitting the track. I'm afraid I'd have to trailer the bike there & back...I'd be too tempted to remain in "track mode" on the ride home and either get a ticket or killed.

This thing has been getting a work out since I moved San Diego.

I got to take it on a great stretch of road that I've ridden a few times on a buddy's spare GS500, Lyons Valley Road near Jamul. It's only about 20 mins from me now. This is the only place I've ever ridden with banked switch backs. I took a buddy there who was visiting from Philly, the same buddy (and bike) that went to Key West with me in the winter a handful of years back. Up until that point it was the best road we've ever been on.





While my buddy was still in town I did some searching for something similar. I found a road that looked like something I tried to sign with my left hand in first grade.. South Grade Rd/S6, A road that climbs up Palomar Mountain. It was wild. Even the road through Cleveland National Forest at the top was great. Another friend joined us and by the time we were half way to the top, we all in agreement it was the best stretch of road we've ever ridden. I can't wait to go back.

Busy road-trip weekend! Nice thing about CA is that you can ride the Duc pretty much year-round.

Exactly. The winter season rain is barely worth mentioning.

Well the Duc got some attention. It was due for an oil change, belt change and valve clearance check/shim. There were also some oil seepage that I wanted to address. The stator cover seal, rocker cover o-rings, oil temp sensor seals/o-rings and head/cam side cover o-rings were all a little damp. All got replaced. I also replaced one of the tensioner rollers since the bearings didn't sound so hot. Everything was done over the course of 2 months since I only had a few hours here and there to work on it but it was only down hard for 3 weeks during the valve shimming phase.

Stator cover seal

Belts

Back together


The oil temp sensor is sealed into an aluminum carrier by 2 o-rings and a c-clip. The carrier is threaded into the rocker cover with an aluminum crush washer. The carrier required a special tool that I didn't have but I was able to unscrew it without too much mauling using flat stock and 2 drill bits.







For anyone not familiar with Ducati's Desmo valvetrain setup, there are no conventional valve springs and the cam opens and closes the valves. What would normally be the valve retainer is shifted down on the valve and acts as the closing shim as it rides the closing rocker arm. The opening rocker arm pushes down on the valve top with an opening shim in between. As the valve wears into the seat, the opening shims get tight and the closing shims get loose. The clearance on this 2V engine should be checked roughly every 2 oil changes. This will be the 3rd time I'm doing this, 2nd on this engine. There are various specs to march to but I try and get the closing shim clearance as close to 0.00mm as I can without drag on the cam and 0.10-0.15mm on the opening. This is generally done by getting taller closing shims and by either getting shorter opening shims or shaving them down.
Below shows the 2V setup and after there's a pic of a feeler gauge slid between the vertical intake valve opening rocker and the opening shim.




Here's a video of the same cylinder and valve fumbling around with the shims and collets (keepers).
https://youtu.be/_mpmY9aT8FA

And.. We're back.

An observation: On my 2-stroke dirt bikes the magneto is dry and the clutch is wet. On this craft it appears to be opposite…the mag is bathed in oil and the clutch is dry. Weird.

I’ve had to manufacture similar tools. If it’s something I think I’ll use more than once I’ll use some grade 8 screws (and thread them into the bar) instead of drill bits.

So I’m a little perplexed on the valve train setup on the Monstro. I get the operation, but what seals the valve to the seat and prevents combustion leakage? Is it just the closing lobe? A valve spring holds tension on the valve creating a positive seal…it would seem to me if all you have is a closing lobe and a cam follower you’d never have a tight seal without drag. It obviously works well, I’m just struggling a bit with it. On the positive side, I reckon it pretty much eliminates valve float due to weak springs.

Same for me on my 2-stokes. Dry clutches are a Ducati/MotoGP/Guzzi thing. In racing the lack of drag from the oil is an advantage. On a street bike it's kind of useless outside of the aestheic, which I'm admittedly into.

Great point on the closing. There is a light return spring to help seat the valve. You can just barely see the coils for it in the rendering. In my video, I have to overcome that spring tension to mess with the closing shim and collets.

So I guess a better way to say it is there are no valve springs but there are return rocker springs.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I saw the spring in the video and wondered. It's reminiscent of a chain tensioner spring, it seems. It doesn't actually close the valve, but just holds it tight for combustion seal. Makes sense now.

I haven't and likely won't have much seat time on this with 2 young ones but I want to make sure the bike is maintained properly for when I do get on it.

The tires were 8 years old and the rear was virtually bald after all the Cali miles. I assumed the front pads were pretty worn down but once I got new pads for reference, they weren't too bad. I replaced them anyway..

I got Michelin Road 5s to replace the Road Pilot 4s and EBC Double-H sintered pads to replace the Ferodo ST sintered front pads. I also got new valve stems since they may have 30k miles on them by now. I can't remember if I replaced them when I had the wheels powdercoated. I could get access to a tire machine but not during a time slot that works with my schedule so I used the zip-tie method I utilized last time.. after I cut the tires off with a sawzall. Not the quickest but the easiest way ahead for me given when I have free time.

I was trying to tune out a lean condition last year with minimal success and when I went to fire up and ride this last week it was definitely worse. There's really no vacuum system to speak of and spraying brake clean around didn't change the idle. That really limits the issue to the fuel system. Instead of doing the right thing, checking fuel pressure, maybe changing the fuel filter and maybe cleaning the injectors one thing at a time to figure out what the issue was, I decided to just shotgun the whole fuel system since it's less than $250.

So this thing got a new pump, filter and injectors. I did replace the pump and filter 6k/8years ago and the injectors are only slightly older. Maybe ethanol things. Either way, some or all of that fixed the issue. It's pretty rich now since I was trying to fix the lean issue with the tune but since it's dual spark, it's happy as a pig in sht until I plug in and pull it back a bit.

I want to say it took me about an hour and a half to replace the fuel system, which is like a vacation compared to everything else I've been messing with.

I had a fun time getting a no start figured out on this.

A few weeks back I was going to take this to work but it wouldn't start. The starter would get power but was too weak to turn it over. I tried jumping it and pop starting it without any luck. The battery voltage was good so I figured it was the starter. The good news is I still had my S2R800 power plant with starter and it looked the same. Unfortunately, two of the three bolts holding the starter on the drive side are inside the case.. So I pulled the generator cover, pulled the starter and realized the 1000 starter had another mount for a bolt on the non-drive end.. I was able to swap over the starter case section from the 1000 starter to the 800 one though. Then I installed it without the drive gear to test and it did turn over. I get it all back together and no-start again, right off the tender. The voltage was still good. Then I jumped the starter relay and still no start. At this point I figured out the battery likely had a few bad cells, were it had the voltage but not the amps. I chucked a new battery in today and it's back in action.