PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

A basic tune up + UIM/LIM gasket change will cost around 300 bucks. Add the 180 from the FWI and you have 500

razr89a wrote:well I already replaced brake pads and rotors, so we're good on that deal, ummmmmmm... let's see...
-New Tires
-New Brake Pads/Rotors
-jesus i don't even remember what else I replaced...there hasn't been that many things I've changed, this car hasn't had ANYTHING go bad..OH yea the starter- replaced that
....
that's really about it..there's not a whole lot of stuff that I have replaced...so..i want a good list of stuff that says EXACTLY what i need something VERY simple and VERY easy to understand, if you want me to do this by myself...

wjcollier07 wrote:http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061

And good lord...its not $500.

PCV, $5
Clean MAF, $Free
Fuel filter, $10
Oxygen sensor, price varies, usually $60 + shipping
Seafoam, $6

thats under $100....

now...check that date stamp...and see if you're going to need a UIM replacement with LIM gaskets.

We don't want you to do it yourself, we're not telling you this needs to be done by you or someone else, we're just trying to save you money.

Ok!

Depends if you want to do a UIM/LIM gasket change
with that....
APN UIM: 115 shipped
Al LIM gaskets: 50+shipping
Coolant Elbows

Now, this is the stuff for the basic tune up...
Plugs (usually autolite or NGKs. NO BOSCH)
Wires (people swear by the AC Delcos, but I'm running some cheap-os from Advance with no problems...)
Fuel Filter (good idea)
Air Filter (consider a rechargeable K&N)
PCV Valve (it's like 5 bucks, so replace it anyways...)
Throttle Body Cleaner, Coolant (about a gallon if you're not flushing it, 2 gallons for the flush)
O2 sensor (60 bucks...)

With some patience and the knowledge from the site, you should be able to do all of the basic tuneup stuff yourself. The UIM/LIM gaskets I'd leave up to someone with more experience (found this out the hard way... hahaha)

he has new plugs, he has new wires..and also, a new K&N.

well I didn't know that
Also, have you given your catalytic converter a nice shake? See if it rattles? I remember my SSEi having horrible performance with my old plugged cat.

ok it's January 27th 2004 i think or 2003 or 2005 hell i dont remember anymore for the UIM

Ok, so your UIM was replaced a few years ago, but do you know who replaced it? I still think you should consider installing the APN UIM in the future... Regardless, you should change your LIM gaskets soon...

Ok, so you're probably good until 180-200k on that...but in the future, keep an eye on your coolant levels and your oil color.

This means you only have to spend about $100 to get your car up and maintained

I don't think anyone has mentioned in this thread yet that getting a bottle of MAF cleaner is a great idea. I'd also Seafoam your crankcase and gas tank. Personally I dumped half a bottle in a tank of gas and the other half in my oil. If you do put some Seafoam in your oil I would recommend driving maybe only 50 miles with it in and then do an oil change with some cheap oil. Run that for a while (like another 100 miles or so) and then do another oil and filter change. If you do your gas tank you may have to replace your fuel filter afterwards because you might plug it from the Seafoam.

I'm no mechanic though so maybe someone else could comment. I know people like to do the Seafoam through their vacuum line and that's it

Are you serious? http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 248#p28248

I swear, I should put that all in red and hot pink so someone will actually read it.

To do a proper clean out in the injectors, add 1 pint (one can) of seafoam to a half tank of fuel. This is about the most concentrated you want to get for driving it normally. As far as the crankcase, good idea, but not necessary at this point, truly optional. Alex, if you use a good oil and change it every 3k, you're good, (as long as theres no dang FRAM filter on there)

I must ask...how is Seafoam going to clog a fuel filter? Its a solvent, not an oil. Replacing the fuel filter is every 15k miles, regardless of using fuel injection cleaners since that 15k number is already pretty conservative.

Seafoam through the vacuum line is also good, but like the oil, is optional. I don't force that on people because if done wrong there IS the possibility to hydrolock an engine. Totally at the owner's risk. If you want to know how, look on YouTube, theres a bunch of videos. But one warning, don't REV the engine like most of the morons do on there....just let it sit for an hour or so, and then either just let it idle until the smoke subsides or take it for a good drive.

wjcollier07 wrote: I must ask...how is Seafoam going to clog a fuel filter? Its a solvent, not an oil. Replacing the fuel filter is every 15k miles, regardless of using fuel injection cleaners since that 15k number is already pretty conservative.

Seafoam through the vacuum line is also good, but like the oil, is optional. I don't force that on people because if done wrong there IS the possibility to hydrolock an engine. Totally at the owner's risk. If you want to know how, look on YouTube, theres a bunch of videos. But one warning, don't REV the engine like most of the morons do on there....just let it sit for an hour or so, and then either just let it idle until the smoke subsides or take it for a good drive.

To be honest I'm not entirely sure. All I know is that about a week after putting Seafoam in my gas tank my car started acting up and my friend (who is fairly knowledgable when it comes to vehicles) suggested I change the fuel filter. I changed it and the car ran fine again. Our guess is that maybe my tank had some buildup and the Seafoam helped 'lift' it and get into my fuel system. It could have been just a coincidence but it sounded reasonable to me at the time.

And speaking of morons revving the engine too high while Seafoaming their vacuum line I've seen a Dodge Neon catch fire because of it . I work overnights at a gas station and this dude (who used to be sort of a friend) did it right out near the pumps. His car catches fire, he runs into the store, completely ignoring the fire extinguisher near the door, freaking out yelling at me how his car is on fire. I'm just laughing uncontrollably because I was on the phone with a buddy and I was just talking to him about how this Neon is going to blow up if the dude keeps revving it like that. I finish laughing and point out the fire extinguisher. Turns out there was some gunk on or oozing from the exhaust manifold that looked like it started it. The POS neon still ran after that but the engine is forever filthy because of all the extinguisher powder stuff on it. A few months later he tried outrunning the cops in it , got busted of course, and I haven't talked to him since.

Long story short, don't keep it revving too long. Just enough to not let the car die.

how much is seafoam? never bought any...and...where's the best way to find it..

sooo

1. put seafoam in from the gas cap intake dealio?
2. let it sit for an hour?
3. let it idle for 10 minutes?

are those right?

how much is seafoam? never bought any...and...where's the best way to find it..

sooo

1. put seafoam in from the gas cap intake dealio?
2. let it sit for an hour?
3. let it idle for 10 minutes?

are those right?

About $5 for a can. You can find it at any auto parts stores.

1. Put 1 can in a half a tank of gas. Put 1/3 of a can in an intake vacuum line. The booster vacuum line is often used.
2. Start the car so the engine can ingest the 1/3 can of Seafoam. This should kill the engine once the Seafoam is consumed. Let this sit for a few minutes(not sure exactly, maybe 15).
3. Start the car and run it around the block so you don't smoke your neighborhood too bad.

You can put more than 1/3 can in the intake. I've put in a whole can before. But make sure, if doing a whole can, do it slowly so that it gets to ALL the cylinders...and that you don't fill any. I'd personally recommend doing half the can, and then half the can.

Add in one can to a 1/3 to 1/2 tank of fuel. Drive it around for a few and get it up to full operating temperature.

Now that it is up to full operating temperature...

Add in 1/2 can through a vacuum line of your choice, I keep a spare length of hose so I can just take off one and add on my own and stick it right into the can.

Shut it off immediately after. Let it sit for about an hour.

Now, start it up...and this might be a little hard, but don't be alarmed. Take it out for a short drive to get it fully back to operating temperature....now to really make sure you give it all it can take, give it the other half of the can and shut it off or let it die. Give it another 30-60 mins to sit. Now take it back out again and drive it for a good while, until the smoke finally goes away.

Make sure to include some good WOT runs.