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Strut mounts and bearings were done together with the struts in April. The bearings don't have much grease/lubrication from the factory, so last weekend the passenger side was taken apart and packed with grease. Driver side was fine. In addition, this noise was present even before changing them all out.

I don't feel it in the steering wheel.

Did you use a torque wrench and torque them properly? I know this is sort of tedious but I'm trying to cover everything here for you that I can think of.

Have you checked the control arm bushings?

Not yet. It's pretty much the next step, taking apart mount by mount and bushing by bushing for inspection. In addition, my once-perfect alignment is royally pooched at the moment (positive camber on the driver's side), but won't be taken care of until this clunking is gone. No idea what else I still have to take apart.

@Michael: No torque wrench was used, basically experience said when to stop. The big 24mm nut was zipped on with an impact gun, and the three 13mm bolts for the strut mount were done up by hand. What's the torque spec for each?

No need to disassemble anything to check control arm bushings, just lift the car, get under it with a pry bar and see if you can get any excessive movement at the bushings (where the control arm pivots)

Next thought, and I know you don't want to hear it, but how old is the tranny? From some of your other posts I'm gathering it's not that old but I'm starting to wonder if the differential pin has broke. When they break, which isn't that uncommon, they stay contained in the housing and will still rotate but eventually will wear the transmission case until it breaks. :sad5:

An example of this...

see how the broken pin wears the inside of the case


and the eventual cracking open

His trans has been gone through 1.5 times in the recent past. I don't think it's that. It would be a constant noise while moving.

That was the failure last summer The rebuild was done a year ago today, actually.

The differential housing and diff is new; I was told that the old pin was failing and walking out - the case was gouged up pretty good but not yet cracked. 2nd clutches and bands were almost gone, and 4th clutch hub splines were on their limit. There is less than 25,000km on the trans done by a reputable 4T6x builder, and it's shifting flawlessly. I recently had it in for a TCC Apply valve and Solenoid, but those were items not included in my original rebuild (they should have been, but checked out okay at the time and I was on a budget... came back to bite me - at least the shop ate the labour for it).

Big effin' prybars were used on the lower arms during the CV shaft and strut removal... don't remember seeing anything odd, but I will verify again with the whole thing intact, to be sure.

Jerry, here's all torque specs for our cars, I'd suggest at this point you start torquing everything to spec since you are having such issues just to be sure of everything!

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... f=39&t=790

ChilinMichael wrote:Frank....you might wanna take note to what I said above as well....what you just described matches my strut mount issue. (This is not a sure diagnosis though)

In my case I believe you're right since I noticed when the steering is turned the front spring will turn but the rubber above it doesn't, hence the noise when it sets into place.

*dang*.

Make SURE you torque them properly, from what I've seen it would not be a far fetched conclusion to say that improper torque causes premature wear of the strut mounts.

What's the spec for the upper retaining nut? Is that the front mounting nut at 140lb-ft? Everything else is good. And even so, my dad and I have enough sense not to WAY overtorque things. I think the vast majority of people who DIY struts aren't going to use a torque wrench on the big 24mm nuts. If it was a big problem I think it would be common knowledge by now.

I think it is more an issue of how much grease and lubricant comes from the Monroe bearings from the factory: very little. Doesn't take much for them to start binding. Passenger side creaking was fixed by disassembly and greasing. You can open the bearings with a small flathead screwdriver - just do it on a bench and don't let any of the balls fall away. That said the driver's side strut hasn't been removed and reassembled yet, I've run out of money before the next few paycheques and the alignment won't happen until then as well. And I don't have a far commute anymore. So I'm taking my time.

For some reason I'm remembering 78 or so, I don't know why. Now looking at that spec sheet, even I am confused...at the time I did it I know I got a for sure answer, maybe I had made a post and someone that really knew answered.

has the axle nut been off for any reason? i only ask cause it sounds like the same clunking noise i was having after changing both axles. another mechanic i know said to impact the snot out of it,,, no more noises at all. hope this helps.

Any updates Jerry?

Nope... ran out of time, willingness, and money. It was supposed to get a bunch of other lovin' with my budget and new job but it ate that up and just isn't worth it anymore.

Since the last post the driver's strut mount was re-lubed and a four-wheel alignment performed. Car's driving great as ever

Jerry, come summer I believe our Bonne's (I know mne does) are going to need some extra lov'in, maybe we should spend the day taking car of some much needed repairs.

I've spent way more than I've want to put into this car... but let me know when you're going to do yours, I'll be glad to come out to help!

Does this mean you're done with anymore repairs/maintenance on yours Jerry?

I need to do all my sub frame bushing on my car come warm weather and I believe I have them already. Couple other repairs come to mind.