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01bonneSC wrote:Yourgrandma, how many miles are on your car?

Hey elders, can valve seals go bad on the 38?

122k

I've only had it since Haloween, so Ive only changed the oil twice. The fist time was more or less normal, if early. Not knowing when it was done last, I changed it when the life meter was at 75%. Level was normal, i filled with Quaker State synthetic. Last weekend I changed it again, of course, having assumed (stupid move, i know) it wouldn't lose oil if it werent on the floor, being a 3800 and all, I was surprised to only get 3 or so quarts out of it. No low oil light, though.

Keep an eye on the oil level for now, at least every other week. Let's take a wait and see approach. That much oil isn't likely to be valve seals, more like rings. LIM gaskets are possible though, so start planning on LIM and valve cover gaskets in the near future. You need them anyway. When you do the valve cover gaskets, you can inspect the valve seals and see if any have popped loose.

Aside from that, wet and dry compression checks would be GREAT. If you want details, post some of this in the 2k mechanical section. Compression (wet/dry) can tell the story, whether it be rings or valves.

We shall see I suppose. Surely as long as I keep the level up its no more than a nuisance, but what a shame.

My 92 had 275,000 on it when I sold it. The kid who bought it changed the oil and forgot the drainplug, ran it a block or two bone dry. ECU shut it down, his dad filled it up, started it up and it still runs like a top. It even stopped leaking now. Imagine how I feel less than half a year after buying a much newer model and dealing with sillyness like this.

try the lucas i promise it will help with the oil consumption and i have been running my truck with 1 qt every change for over 2 years and it kicks butt trust me

I just want to watch it for the time being. If it's using, I'll probably tear it apart anyway because I want to do a cam and porting anyway.

01bonneSC wrote:Yourgrandma, how many miles are on your car?

Hey elders, can valve seals go bad on the 38?

I ordered some with my cam just as an instructed precaution. I don't know about them just going bad under normal situations.

Just thought I'd update this thread.

It's now riding season, so the Bonnie will be more or less a garage queen until October. As rediculous as it is, that's my system. I have watched the oil level very closely and I don't appear to have lost a drop this time. Not sure what the deal is, but Im not complaining.

So the mod list has shrunk now that I won't be replacing the shortblock.

It will get:

FWI
PCM
Pulley
180* 'stat
Race pipe

Now the question is what order to do them in. I would imagine the PCM should be last so it can be programmed for the other mods. I figure I'll do the FWI and stat now, and the rest at another point. Part of me wants to do it all at once, too, though. Opinions?

I wouldn't do a race pipe. Just get a HF Cat. If you have the cash, do them all at once. If you're going to get a PCM, just get the standard PCM and make sure they know your mods and intended mods. I have the Intense Level 1, and it contains the 3.4 MPS, 180* T-stat, FWI, PCM, a fresh set of Autolite 605 plugs and a new S/C belt for $420. Pretty good deal if you ask me.

i'd do all the intense stuff at once which equals their stage one package

180* 'stat
FWI
Headers
Pulley
PCM

In that order.

I'm starting to think of the Stage 1 kit, but Ive got fresh denso iridiums, so the plugs are a waste, and my blower belt is almost new as well (do you need a shorter belt for a 3.4"?), so the $25 savings are up in smoke.

Yes, you do need a shorter belt, and the plugs are colder. If you mod, you need to go to copper plugs. Iridium plugs can cause tons of un-necessary KR. The plugs aren't wasted, and the belt is necessary.

Oh fine then. Might push the timeframe back a ways though. Motorcycle season brings out all kinds of expences. Trackdays are not a cheap habit.