PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Allmachtige wrote:Why do you need a spare fuel rail?

Kyle, check out the thread I started here:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =12&t=6603

Swapped out the 99 fuel rails for the 00+ w/ pulsation damper as well as installed a brand new FPR. (now I have 3).
So far, I haven't noticed a significant difference, though it does seem a little better. Still has some misfires going on at idle and still seeing 1* of KR around the 2800-3200 range. I think my next item to replace is the ICM. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Commanding 9-10* only seeing 5-6* @ WOT in my scans for 2800 rpms and up.

Can you post a pic of the KR histogram averages? Its my personal way to getting a baseline idea of how the car is performing.

Allmachtige wrote:Can you post a pic of the KR histogram averages? Its my personal way to getting a baseline idea of how the car is performing.

Don't have my laptop with me today. I'll be scanning tomorrow morning. Will post histo then.

Here's this morning's scan:

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=5617
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=5618

My HPT spark settings:





and my histo's from the scan:




I'll adjust my MAF to bring down the LTFTs, however, I do not know why I'm commanding 8-11* and only seeing 3-6*
Can someone please look into this and help me figure out why this is happening?

Did you adjust all those tables? The only thing I touch when changing timing is the High Octane table.

EDIT: I've never touched those other tables, but at first glance I would personally only zero out the IAT Timing table.

Ken, have you tried restoring all those timing tables to stock and then resetting the fuel trims for good measure?

all i have to say is im glad im not supercharged... took a local tuner about an hour to get rid of my KR and a little more time to tweak the timing, etc.

bonnevillain wrote:all i have to say is im glad im not supercharged... took a local tuner about an hour to get rid of my KR and a little more time to tweak the timing, etc.

It takes a lot more time to get a close tune in; supercharged or not.

I believe Ken's issue is more mechanical than a tuning problem and it would still cause issues on an NA.

well my ltfts lock in at 0, and my KR stays at 0 also... 02 readings look fine, shifts were improved also. it's definitely a good tune. maybe not 100% the best, but like i said took less than half a day, and $50

/offtopic

Ken, have you looked into why you're SLP's are so loud? a big exhaust leak could be messing things up for you in a major way. I'd look into that before you keep shotgunning parts at your car.

1994se wrote:Ken, have you looked into why you're SLP's are so loud? a big exhaust leak could be messing things up for you in a major way. I'd look into that before you keep shotgunning parts at your car.

There's no major leaks, that I know.
The two shops I've taken it to told me at least 4 or 5 times each that, the way it is now is how it's suppose to sound. I've always had a suspicion that there's something wrong with the exhaust. I have to verify, but I believe I'm getting 9 to 9.5 lbs of boost on a 3.5 pulley. A buddy of mine said that I should be getting only 8 because someone he knows with a GTP is running a 3.4 pulley and he's getting 9 lbs., which leads me to believe I'm stacking some where.
I wish there was someone in our area who specialized in custom exhaust for our cars. I've already spent $2000 on my exhaust. :sad5: I'm debating on pulling the SLP cat off.

Your boost gauge is dependent on the accuracy of your MAP sensor. Get a mechanical gauge on that thing at least temporarily to see what you really have.

From your mod list, there's no way you're boost-stacking. And don't compare to a Grand Prix boost indication unless they have an aftermarket gauge. Their gauge is even more inaccurate than a Bonnevilles.

Talk to Sinister Drag Design out of Joliet. They have mandrel bends now and are the shop that is behind the current fastest stock cam GTP as of last weekend. Great guys too.

Also try Lovell's in downtown DeKalb. Talk to Hutch and say you were sent by a Bonneville driver who gets exhaust work done there.

As for boost, I'd say 9-9.5 is right for your mods. I get that, maybe 10.x sometimes. Then again you have headers and I don't, so I think you're fine in that department.

I think the Aeroforce has a boost reader and I don't know if its accurate, but I haven't used that thing much since I got the tuner.

Still getting some misfires here and there..so I just ordered a new ICM. If this doesn't work, I think I need to find a 99 Bonny PCM to write current bin to (have a funny suspicion the PCM Intense sent me has something written to it that I cannot change that is causing a problem). Anyone have a 99 Bonny PCM I can borrow?

99ssei wrote:I think I need to find a 99 Bonny PCM to write current bin to (have a funny suspicion the PCM Intense sent me has something written to it that I cannot change that is causing a problem). Anyone have a 99 Bonny PCM I can borrow?

It always a great idea to have a spare PCM around just in case, but you don't need one. If you do a full write of the 512K bin file with a stock file (or derivative thereof), you'll overwrite all the data. There's more risk when doing a full write versus a partial but be sure you have at least 11.7 volts at the PCM at all times. You can slow the write speed to ensure success too.

On a partial write some tables will not be changed if they were modified outside of the editor you use (HPT) and not included in the mapping. Doing a full write with a battery charger attached will clear up any doubts about what's in the bin.

Cheers,

Foghorn wrote:

99ssei wrote:I think I need to find a 99 Bonny PCM to write current bin to (have a funny suspicion the PCM Intense sent me has something written to it that I cannot change that is causing a problem). Anyone have a 99 Bonny PCM I can borrow?

It always a great idea to have a spare PCM around just in case, but you don't need one. If you do a full write of the 512K bin file with a stock file (or derivative thereof), you'll overwrite all the data. There's more risk when doing a full write versus a partial but be sure you have at least 11.7 volts at the PCM at all times. You can slow the write speed to ensure success too.

On a partial write some tables will not be changed if they were modified outside of the editor you use (HPT) and not included in the mapping. Doing a full write with a battery charger attached will clear up any doubts about what's in the bin.

Cheers,

We did that before and there was no change. Here's my theory (and forgive me for writing out loud my thoughts)...I ordered a PCM from Intense. They had a PCM lying around from say a 00 GTP. Using software that may not have access to all the tables (such as HPT), Intense writes a new file to the 00 GTP PCM with 99 SSEi data. I think you mentioned to me over the phone that there are about 400 tables in the PCM and HPT can only access 100 (or so) of them. I'm thinking that if Intense uses a software program that cannot change all the tables on a full write (like HPT), then maybe there's some table that is set for another vehicle that is still there. On the other hand, Intense sent me the stock 99 SSEi bin file, which I loaded and made all my tuning to, which counters my argument. But I wonder if there was something in the Intense PCM that was not changed (or cannot be changed) even with a full write. What if there is a table that I need to change that is causing my issue? How do I get to it? How can I see it? How do I know? Grrr...so frustrating.

willwren wrote:Your boost gauge is dependent on the accuracy of your MAP sensor. Get a mechanical gauge on that thing at least temporarily to see what you really have.

Sensors as in plural. The gauge sensor has no effect on the pcm. Test them by looking at the other. If the pcm sensor reads differently than the gauge, further diagnosis would be warranted.

I have a spare pcm sitting here if you'd like. We can even rule out your tuner/cable etc if you send me the most current tune. I will burn it and ship it. Like Paul I do recommend having a spare.

99ssei wrote:How do I know? Grrr...so frustrating.

There is nothing Intense, or anyone else, can write to a bin that won't be overwritten when a full write is performed.

That's how all the aftermarket PCM vendors are able to actually provide such a wide variety of product. All they need is a PCM that has the correct part number (often shared by many vehicles), then they do a full write with their own modified version of a stock bin for the intended application.

In your case, since you started from the stock bin that was provided to you by Intense, once you've done a full write then there's nothing 'left over' in the bin that you can't access.

Put that worry out of your mind.

Cheers,