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This thing is a POS! HAS LIKE A SHUDDER TAKING OFF? Previous owner replaced all 5 solenoids in trans? Doesn't pull worth *shoot*, least not like i think it should? still get the flashing light. I'm not sure where to go from here? ICM, Even tho it was changed 15000 miles ago? Cam Sensor, crank sensor? it runs fine just under load
is when it acts up? I would think if it were one those sensors wouldn't it be throwing a code especially how bad it feels? Maybe money ahead to take to a shop with a better scanner?

It looks like the scanner is only updating once per second, which can make diagnostics tricky. Check the tps using the scanner with the key on engine off. It should change progressively and logically. I had a tps go on me, that became apparent when I floored it. It wouldn't stay at 100%, it would start jumping around erratically. Would cause the car to start freaking out when wide open.

So i put a new TPS in last night, same issue today, I checked MAF, It looked clean which it should he had replaced it also, i sprayed it anyway Maybe as simple as fuel filter? Be cheap enough to try? Bad egr? I ohm'd all injectors, all good, maybe listen with my stethoscope when its running?

If it's running out of fuel, it should peg lean on the scanner and you should then see the pcm reacting by dumping by attempting to dump more fuel.

RJolly87 wrote:If it's running out of fuel, it should peg lean on the scanner and you should then see the pcm reacting by dumping by attempting to dump more fuel.

U mean when it's doing its studdering etc when taking off or stepping into it correct? Watch the first O2 SENSOR on scan tool, Makes sense for that.

I had a similar issue and it was the ICM. Have you also tried swapping this?
I just reread and you indicate it was changed 1500 miles ago, was it a new one? Did you use dielectric grease on the insulators?

AJT2004 wrote:I had a similar issue and it was the ICM. Have you also tried swapping this?
I just reread and you indicate it was changed 1500 miles ago, was it a new one? Did you use dielectric grease on the insulators?

The previous owner changed it 15,000 miles ago, he said it was new a standard part brand I’m guessing? Grease where the coils plug in? I didn’t if that’s what u mean there. It’s like it’s missing cylinders, u go to take off , doesn’t even have to be hard just heavy throttle it just flutters, or surges, same thing backing up it’s just gutless like it’s missing cylinders, yet it revs smooth? Weird it’s under load mainly, but if u quick rev it in park it will hesitate or stumble too, but if u rev it slow it revs nice.

it appears you recently purchased this vehicle, is this an ongoing problem that the previous owner also experienced?
Regardless, I'm thinking the ignition wires could be at fault. Since you did not change them try a new set and also verify the firing order is correct.

AJT2004 wrote:it appears you recently purchased this vehicle, is this an ongoing problem that the previous owner also experienced?
Regardless, I'm thinking the ignition wires could be at fault. Since you did not change them try a new set and also verify the firing order is correct.

I bought this about a month ago? Drove it to missouri, got *dang* near 31 mpg, got back into iowa, got gas and shortly after check engine light came on, and i started to see mileage go down, and then the more i drove it i started seeing these other issues with misfire etc, I've messaged him just when i started to have issues to verify when certain stuff was bought or replaced, my guess even tho he said no when i was looking at it, was he was chasing a issue, and maybe thought he got it good enough to sell? or maybe not and its a fluke? the wires and plugs ngk tr55 are brand new also? One thing I did notice was that #2 and 5 were switched on the coil pack, but it was like that when i bought it, and their weren't issues, i've changed it now to reflect how it goes, least from pics i seen on google? It didn't change anything, runs the same lol. From what i've been reading about fuel trims, their high at idle which sounds like a vacuum leak according to what i read? both the upper and lower intake gaskets have been done. I have some video i took yesterday scanning live data, i could post the videos here, see if u guys see anything odd?

I may have become cynical as I age, but I think it's been an ongoing issue. Before you bought the car, did you check for pending codes and if the readiness monitors were reset? To confirm the firing order is now correct?

AJT2004 wrote:I may have become cynical as I age, but I think it's been an ongoing issue. Before you bought the car, did you check for pending codes and if the readiness monitors were reset? To confirm the firing order is now correct?

I totally agree!! I do t know how I would’ve checked the readiness monitors ? When it first happened I seen all the history of stuff on the reader but didn’t think much of it as he said he changed a lot of stuff, now I wish I would’ve looked more at them!! I questioned him when I seen his ad, n asked if he was chasing a issue he assured me it was to make it right for his daughter n grand daughter, n maybe some of that is correct, but I think it was happening towards the end n killing him money wise changing all this *shoot*!! I’ve already put a radiator in it, n now tonight the water pump appears to be leaking!!! Maybe it’s a blessing n when I change the cam sensor , cause y not it’s right there it will fix this issue too! I really want to confront him, but as I get older I know that’s not wise lol. Water pump looks fairly easy?

I would get a set of plugs and wires. Toss them NGK tuner fan boy plugs right in the trash and get yourself some AC Delco iridiums and a set of Napa premium lifetime warranty wires. Best wires I have ever found with good value.

Definately get it hooked up to a better scanner as well

Goostoff wrote:I would get a set of plugs and wires. Toss them NGK tuner fan boy plugs right in the trash and get yourself some AC Delco iridiums and a set of Napa premium lifetime warranty wires. Best wires I have ever found with good value.

Definately get it hooked up to a better scanner as well

Yea I'll pick up new plugs and wires too ,set gap at .055 with the ac delco's I was reading?

How do u get the *fook* fuel rail back down onto the injectors to put the clips in, it won’t push anymore? Wtf!! My plenum bolts were loose when I checked them after the water pump, I’m getting so pissed off, it’s like those brackets are holding it up!! There touching the intake mount, so I can’t push anymore!!

So got everything back together, new O rings on top of injectors, new ac delco plugs, Belden wires, new cam sensor, it’s 90% better, but still wants to misfire in number 4, but it’s a huge improvement, maybe those upper plenum gaskets being loose and running that way even tho I snugged them there’s a issue yet there, what ya guys think?

Glad to hear! Where you able to properly torque all the upper intake bolts? It is possible the manifold and/or the gasket maybe damaged or warped given the incorrect installation. I would double check all the work the PO did to ensure it was done properly.

AJT2004 wrote:Glad to hear! Where you able to properly torque all the upper intake bolts? It is possible the manifold and/or the gasket maybe damaged or warped given the incorrect installation. I would double check all the work the PO did to ensure it was done properly.

Thanks! I was able to get at them all I used a quarter in drive ratchet and tightened them by hand , probably close to the 7 ft lb spec? I also found number three plug was cracked down the ceramic too, I’ll spray around the plenum today but yes I’m thinking there’s still a possible issue there and that’s causing the slight misfire yet. I’m going to do the fuel filter today just cause I have no idea on that either.

So filter fitting is very rusty, what are my options?? I tried breaking it loose and no go, sprayed more pb blaster on it to sit longer don’t know if I’m screwed or not?

Spray it again, soaking the fitting and wait a few hours. Hold the fitting and turn the filter, this prevents twisting the line. Also use a flare nut wrench.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 23215.html

When you get it off before installing the new filter use anti-seize on the fuel line and also on the threads of the nut.
This will prevent the nut from seizing onto the line.
A torch is the best way to free something but you cannot do this in this case because it is a fuel line.
DO NOT USE A TORCH IN THIS CASE.
I have used a heat gun to warm it up but be careful because you are around gasoline.
These filters can be a real pain.
Take your time because you do not want the fuel line to snap.