PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

BumpinBonneville17 wrote:

95naSTA wrote:For rockers, your best option would be to go with ER ratio rockers.

Check out this link : http://www.easyperformance.com/Tech_Inf ... ntent.html

ZZP bought the design and they sell them.

according to the graph these do better than 1.90 ratio rocker arms. Do they have a greater ratio than 1.90? Also if I plan on getting my ECU reprogrammed (somewhere) and I was gonna do 6,250 RPM should I get aftermarket springs and retainers too?

Thanks,
Bumpin'

They will do better than 1.9s. It's not potential flow, it's velocity on n/a cars. They make a 1.95 ratio rocker but there is absolutely no point to go that high on a n/a engine.

You do not want to shift a 4t60-e that high. Trust me. It cannot keep line pressure that high. 4T65's have a better pump and have historically dealt with higher shifts better. I'd say 6100 max and that's with shorter intake runners.

And yes on the springs and retainers. 105's would be best.

Barry wrote:Your sig says you have a brand new motor with 18,000 on it. Is it a rebuilt? Do you have Dexcool in there now? If it is a rebuilt, you may already have the new aluminum gaskets, and maybe even the redesigned UIM. Get the Dex out now if you have it in there.

GOOD EYE/BRAIN ACTION!!!!

It is a brand new crate engine. It cost the previous owner $5,600 to have a GM dealer do it a couple years ago (I have the reciept). If 6,250 RPM is too high then I will probably just leave it stock when I send my PCM in. What does UIM stand for? I'll never use Dexcool garbage in any of my toys ever! Only the classic greeeeen for me. If it was in there that would've been the first thing that I would've changed.

Thanks,
Bumpin'

UIM = Upper Intake Manifold

UIM= Upper Intake Manifold, LIM= Lower Intake Manifold

I dont know how well this ACTUALLY works, others with more brain celss than me say....
https://www.zzperformance.com/grand_pri ... &catid=113

dollar for dollar, and as mentioned before the lim porting will be the best performance for the least amount of money. Hands down. but a fwi is certainly right after that, imop.

I think I'll concentrate on the LIM for now then and I'll do the ER rockers later. Besides putting in the ported LIM is there anything else that I would have to do at that time? I got one of those cheap CAI from Ebay coming tomorrow. I still havn't seen a FWI on a 96 Bonny, I heard that the PCM is in a more friendly position for a FWI on 97'.

Bumpin'

On the ebay intake, throw the filter away if it's not a K&N. The tube is probably too short to put the filter in the proper position. It doesn't have a heatshield. If the coupler isn't silicone (hard rubber) throw it away too.

By the time you buy the proper filter and fabricate the shield, you should have bought a FWI. At this point, you'd be better off with a gutted airbox and drop-in replacement performance filter.

It provides cold air.

That sucks, thats pretty much the entire kit, actually that is the entire kit. lol I think I'll put this on for now then When I figure out how to do a FWI, I'll do that with a quality K&N filter.

willwren wrote:The single biggest bang for your buck is a port-matched LIM.

Bar none. No other mod can come close to the gains vs. cost. And being an L36, you need to replace the UIM anyway, not to mention the LIM gaskets before you start modding anyway. That should be your first mod.

Agree x 1000

I don't think the thread where I installed my ported LIM (graciously ported by agrazela) is on this forum, probably on the old one. But as soon as I did it, and every time I get in the car now STILL, I always get a tremendous "WHOA" feeling when I drive it.

Of course, it is my weekend car so I don't drive it that often and it may be why I get the sensation every time I drive it...but it definitely made a huge difference in the way the car performs. Highly recommended.

After that, as others have said, FWI is a great choice. Intense makes the best intake for these cars. Expensive, but worth it. I love mine, and pretty sure everyone else who has one feels the same.
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I think an INTENSE 3.5" FWI intake is too big for an n/a car. I'm tired of saying it. If you really want to know why search my posts.

95naSTA wrote:I think an INTENSE 3.5" FWI intake is too big for an n/a car. I'm tired of saying it. If you really want to know why search my posts.

I have no idea what your talking about? What are you tired of saying and If I really want to know what? Sorry I'm just confused. Oh wait is this directed at LeSabreUltra? Cause if it is then I understand.

Bumpin'

Many L36's here have used the 3.5" FWI and are very happy with it. Get someone to compare 3" to 3.5" on the same car to settle that.

My opinion? The 3" is a proven good size for the L27, and the L36 moves more air (because it revs and shifts at higher rpm's) and revs quicker (needs to develop velocity quicker) simply because it has lighter rotating internals.

You'll be better off with a gutted airbox than an ebay intake. The airbox won't pull hot air from the engine bay.

A 3" is plenty for a mildly modded L36.
Hp is directly related to flow and in other car communities, 3" has been dyno proven to be optimum for about 225ish whp. (270-280 crank hp)
I've seen other setups have as high as 270whp n/a on a 3" pipe.

I had a 3" intake, and then went to Intense's 3.5...

I felt no ill effects.
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but utilizing what he already has, he can just buy a couple feet of 3" hose from intense, the 3"filter, and clamps. and for about 60 bucks, custom fwi.

But probably not that ebay filter, either.

no, pretty much just the 3" aluminum pipe is all that will be useful. the coupler may be ok though.

95naSTA wrote:A 3" is plenty for a mildly modded L36.
Hp is directly related to flow and in other car communities, 3" has been dyno proven to be optimum for about 225ish whp. (270-280 crank hp)
I've seen other setups have as high as 270whp n/a on a 3" pipe.

If so, what was the purpose of GM going from the 3" to the 3.5" throttle body inlet?

Barry wrote:

95naSTA wrote:A 3" is plenty for a mildly modded L36.
Hp is directly related to flow and in other car communities, 3" has been dyno proven to be optimum for about 225ish whp. (270-280 crank hp)
I've seen other setups have as high as 270whp n/a on a 3" pipe.

If so, what was the purpose of GM going from the 3" to the 3.5" throttle body inlet?

maybe gm want/needed to bump the ser 2 L67 TB size, and they didnt want to make 2 different TB sizes(L36,&L67), which would allow them to also have the entire air intake system the same uniform sizes.