PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

i didnt see any markings on then when i got them.. i believe i have pics. let me check photobucket.

Oh yup stamped steel.

THeres no need to adjust while running, not much to adjust with stock stuff. Usually just keep tightening till up and down movement of the push rod is no longer. then give it another half turn. Continue on the next cylinder in the firing order.

Like this...

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/valvlash.htm

ok i i finally re-adjusted the valves this morning the correct way as shown in the link.

now the motor does sound better but still dont sound right.
so i started the truck,
unplugged the lil wire from under the dash while truck was running, turned distributor cap untill timing mark was on zero indicator while using timing light,
motor sounded decent but still ruff as if it was idling up and down,
so i then turned the truck off and plugged in the lil clip under the dash like the link stated to do,
then restarted truck and it sounded worse,
i then checked the timing mark to see if it was still on the zero indicator and it was not. i could not even see the timing mark.


i tried to set timing all over again. and the timing mark will stay fine as long as the clip under the dash is un plugged. but once the clip is plugged back in, the timing mark moves again..


can anybody tell me why it does this ? and how to maybe fix it ?

Maybe there is something different between the computer you have and the one for the engine you got so that the advance is being applied as retard instead? Can you test the coil?

Get it running and check for vacuum leaks.

01bonneSC wrote:Get it running and check for vacuum leaks.

never really had to do any text for vacuum leaks.. just always inspected hoses, how can i really perform vacuum leak test ?

ok i took off the throttle body spacer, played with distributor cap and timing some more. also played with idle adjustment screw on tbi/carb and i cant figure this out.

im getting ALOT OF WATER and white smoke ( not grey or blue ). coming out of the exhaust while truck is running.

also the truck idles kinda good but a lil loud or rough i guess.

when i play with the diistributor i can get the smoke to stop almost 80%, but then truck idles up and down.

also the exhaust smells like gas when its smoking, and when i turn truck off i get alot of smoke coming out the throttle body with the air filter off..

2 of my neighbors told me all the smoke coming from my exhaust smells like gas...

i checked the oil and it does not seem to be milky or have any bubbles in it which would tell me antifreeze is mixing with it.

i then checked my radiator and it is a lil low where i left it when i first filled the engine with fluids after the motor swap.

i am about to drain all the oil later today for a better look but the dip stick shows no signs of water/antifreeze mixing with it no matter how many times i run engine or check the dip stick..

i can show pics of the oil on the dip stick..if needed.


any ideas on whats going on.. i also cant get timing mark to stop bouncing around on me.

I don't pretend to be educated in these matters, but here goes. You set base timing (whatever the stock setting is) by unplugging the plug in the dash you speak of. Set it with the timing light, tighten the adjustment on the distributor, and then leave it. Plug the plug back in, and the computer then should be controlling the advance and such. When this happens, the timing will be bouncing around, and that is fine.

Now, the white smoke with moisture? My bet is condensation, from the exhaust heating up some, than cooling down repeatedly. I expect it to go away once you get the truck and exhaust fully warmed up if that is the case.

Now, the smoke. It could be the engine is flooding out because you have been futzing around with the timing so much there is gas everywhere, or the engine is overfueling.

If I was presented with the situation you are, I would set the timing properly to stock, and then take it for a drive to get it cleared out. Then see where you stand. You could be causing your own problem.

RJolly87 wrote:I don't pretend to be educated in these matters, but here goes. You set base timing (whatever the stock setting is) by unplugging the plug in the dash you speak of. Set it with the timing light, tighten the adjustment on the distributor, and then leave it. Plug the plug back in, and the computer then should be controlling the advance and such. When this happens, the timing will be bouncing around, and that is fine.

Now, the white smoke with moisture? My bet is condensation, from the exhaust heating up some, than cooling down repeatedly. I expect it to go away once you get the truck and exhaust fully warmed up if that is the case.

Now, the smoke. It could be the engine is flooding out because you have been futzing around with the timing so much there is gas everywhere, or the engine is overfueling.

If I was presented with the situation you are, I would set the timing properly to stock, and then take it for a drive to get it cleared out. Then see where you stand. You could be causing your own problem.

I agree with this advice 100%. Set the base timing with that wire unplugged, tighten the distributor, plug the wire back in, and LEAVE IT ALONE! The computer will fine tune the timing as needed.

If I recall, the computer uses the signal from the distributor to pulse the injector, so every time you change the distributor position, the injector pulsewidth and timing may be off too.

Only other advice is to make triple sure that your spark plug wires are properly connected. If you have two crossed, it may not be enough to cause backfires, but enough to make it run really rough and blow smoke.

88bonnsse wrote:

01bonneSC wrote:Get it running and check for vacuum leaks.

never really had to do any text for vacuum leaks.. just always inspected hoses, how can i really perform vacuum leak test ?

Spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold. gaskets specifically. Under the Throttle body. If you hear the engine idle up, thats where your leak is.

88bonnsse wrote:also played with idle adjustment screw on tbi/carb and i cant figure this out.

Are you talking about the screw that adjust the throttle. Down by the Accelerator linkage?

If so, you want to set that so the throttle plate is closed all the way, but not stuck when closed (over traveled). Set the TPS voltage to .5 volts.

This TB is set up just like our 3.8's using a bypass channel for the idle using an IAC servo. The TPS may not be adjustable (cannot remember if it has slotted holes or not). The IAC servo is is the black cylinder threaded into the TB on the right rear corner as looking towards the front of the motor, near the EGR valve.

I also agree with adjusting the timing as stated above. You also want to make sure it is warmed up and in closed loop when setting the idle.

Do you have a scanner available to see what the sensors are doing? (closed loop, O2, TPS, IAC servo etc)

myfirstbonnie wrote:

88bonnsse wrote:also played with idle adjustment screw on tbi/carb and i cant figure this out.

Are you talking about the screw that adjust the throttle. Down by the Accelerator linkage?

If so, you want to set that so the throttle plate is closed all the way, but not stuck when closed (over traveled). Set the TPS voltage to .5 volts.

This TB is set up just like our 3.8's using a bypass channel for the idle using an IAC servo. The TPS may not be adjustable (cannot remember if it has slotted holes or not). The IAC servo is is the black cylinder threaded into the TB on the right rear corner as looking towards the front of the motor, near the EGR valve.

I also agree with adjusting the timing as stated above. You also want to make sure it is warmed up and in closed loop when setting the idle.

Do you have a scanner available to see what the sensors are doing? (closed loop, O2, TPS, IAC servo etc)

well i got bad news, just drained oil and noticed alot of fresh antifreeze mixed in.

i put new head gasket kit on when i put my rebuilt heads. and one thing i now rember is the gaskets were like tin or metal material and i did accidently bend one and then bent it back into shape and installed it thinking nothing of it.

i also rember now that when i first got motor in and together and then i tried to start it for the first time so i can set the timing, i did not realize i had forgotten to put the water pump fan on and about 30 mins later the temp light came on so i immediatly shut the truck off wondering why the temp light came on and then i noticed i forgot the fan that goes on the water pump.

again i thought nothing of it. i let motor cool over night. next day installed fan then tried to set timing again. and again. and again..

so now after sitting back playing everything in my head from the day i ripped out the bad motor i see these to big mistakes.



so now im not sure if
#1- the bent headgasket i rebent and used is giving me a coolant in the oil problem which is causing the very rough n high idle with lots of smoke and water out the exhaust.

or
#2- if running the engine for 20-30 mins untill it i noticed it over heated possibly caused the block to crack or my new heads to warp..