Intense Headers
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myfirstbonnie
- Resident Gearhead

- Posts: 5530
- Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 10:19 pm
- Year and Trim: .
2015 Buick Enclave
2013 Buick Regal GS - Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Re: Intense Headers
They were designed for the GP, but will work for the Bonnevilles. There may be a little extra work when it comes to connecting them to the exhaust.
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jedwards83
- Posts like an LN3

- Posts: 440
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:18 am
- Year and Trim: Currently searching for a Bonneville...
- Location: Flaherty, KY
Re: Intense Headers
I just put them on my car a couple weeks ago. Piece of cake, get the W body transmission dipstick and tube and they're a very comfortable fit, probably moreso than the GP.
The only difference is you'll need to fabricate a way to attach the downpipe to the cat / exhaust. There is no stock flange to bolt these up to, as there would be on the W bodies. I went from the 3" DP to 3" cat, then used a slip joint 3" to 2 1/2" reducer to the rest of the exhaust. Keep in mind the stock exhaust is 2 1/2" inside diameter, so it'll fit over whatever fitting / reducer you choose to use as long as it's 2 1/2" outside diameter. Use some exhaust sealer on the various fittings from the downpipe and back unless you plan on welding things.
Re-use the stock gaskets, throw the ones that come with the headers in the trash. Get two 2 1/4" and two 3" band clamps from http://www.frozenboost.com, in the exhaust section. The included ones are junk. Also you may need an O2 sensor extension cable for the front O2 if you're using an OEM (AC Delco) sensor. These are available at Intense-racing.com and probably others. The cable on my Denso sensor was long enough without the extension.
Lots of people have used these, on lots of different cars. The build quality seems pretty decent. Nice TIG welds, enough heft to the material that it's doubtful they're going to rust through (certainly not where I live) or crack ever. I've had them on long enough to give them a good workout, and so far the exhaust is leak free and holding up nicely.
The only difference is you'll need to fabricate a way to attach the downpipe to the cat / exhaust. There is no stock flange to bolt these up to, as there would be on the W bodies. I went from the 3" DP to 3" cat, then used a slip joint 3" to 2 1/2" reducer to the rest of the exhaust. Keep in mind the stock exhaust is 2 1/2" inside diameter, so it'll fit over whatever fitting / reducer you choose to use as long as it's 2 1/2" outside diameter. Use some exhaust sealer on the various fittings from the downpipe and back unless you plan on welding things.
Re-use the stock gaskets, throw the ones that come with the headers in the trash. Get two 2 1/4" and two 3" band clamps from http://www.frozenboost.com, in the exhaust section. The included ones are junk. Also you may need an O2 sensor extension cable for the front O2 if you're using an OEM (AC Delco) sensor. These are available at Intense-racing.com and probably others. The cable on my Denso sensor was long enough without the extension.
Lots of people have used these, on lots of different cars. The build quality seems pretty decent. Nice TIG welds, enough heft to the material that it's doubtful they're going to rust through (certainly not where I live) or crack ever. I've had them on long enough to give them a good workout, and so far the exhaust is leak free and holding up nicely.
Last edited by jedwards83 on Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Inferno Red 2009 Dodge Caliber SRT-4 125k



