PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Ya, after putting an L32 in place of an L67, you basically remove all everything from the heads up, so you have just a long block. Then build it up with the parts that work.

Thanks guys for all the info with this swap. If I remember correctly in one of the other posts you could use the front exhaust manifold and cross over pipe from the L26. Then switch to the L 36 back exhaust manifold out of my 99 se.

Do I have to switch the harmonic balancer?

Should I take pictures of the swap as I go, maybe help others?

Or would this just be a waste of my time?, (already done somewhere else in this site).

Thanks

Keep the balancer. It's a better design than the S2's, and part of the reason why an S3 runs smoother.

Yes you can keep the front manifold. IIRC I actually had to put on the crosspipe from the Bonneville as it lined up better with the Bonneville rear manifold.

Yup, front manifold and crossover can stay. Rear manifold swaps.

HB can stay.

Definately take pics if you can, never too many pics.

Alright guys I'll run with that and do my best to document my progress along the way. Now I just have to start tearing down the L36 and pull it out. While I wait for the new to me series III to show up. I think it will be hear around the beginning of next week.

Side note: was able to get to the garage and get it all cleaned up from winter mess, and ready for bonneville heart transplant.

Alright guys got some of the prep work done for my new motor, which is supposed to come in Monday. Here are some pics of the progress.

Labeled and tagged all the sensor connections before unplugging.

Decided to remove the hood to make the motor removal easier.

Pieces and parts sorted out and bags labeled, hopefully to ease reassembly. Anybody spot the bad front tranny mount, oh the fun things you find when pulling a motor.

Empty engine bay will make cleaning it up easier.

Heres the inside of the oil pan.

This shot you can see some of the metal in the oil pickup screen
That's it for now, waiting for the parts I ordered for the swap and the motor.

Couple quick questions though, while pulling the motor out the torque converter slipped a little way out but didn't fall out. It was leaking some tranny fluid before I was able to slide it back in place. Now as long as I was able to slide it back without any trouble everything should be ok right?

Also when or should I break up this install post?

TC will be fine.

You don't need to break up the thread. Just keep on posting.

I agree, TC will be fine. Just check the fluid level once you've got the motor running.

Thanks good to know, didn't want to have to buy another part on the already long list. I'll try to take pics along the way with the parts swap between motors. Sometimes its hard to stop once you get going on a project.
Again thanks for all the guidance, without it I would have been putting in another L36 and not the better and cheaper low milage L26.

Well I confirmed my thought about the knock. The number 3 piston spun its rod bearings. Which explains the metal absolutely everywhere. Oh well at least I'm going to have an 07' series III with only 77,576 on it. Shouldn't have any issues with this one.

So I finally received the replacement motor today. What a dirty little pig, lots of cleaning a head of me.
This is before I started tearing it apart just getting it into the garage
Front side:

I can't use the alternator because the L26 is a two wire conn. while the L36 is a 3 wire conn.. Plus the belt tensioner coolant ports for the heater core would require modifying the L36 elbows. I would have to cut off the tabs and cut them down and re-weld the tabs to the L26 position. Not worth it to me because I already just replaced all of this on the L36 before the motor blew.

Heres a comparison between the 99' bonne accessories and the 07' grand prix's

Rear manifold differences:

Front manifold differences (basically studs for the heat shield).

Extra parts: complete engine harness w/pcm, mounts, alternator and belt tensioner assembly.

I'm hoping this isn't the rear main seal and just the pan gasket seal but not sure?

Back shot looking through the holes in flex plate.

Now a few questions,
#1 Can I use the coils off the L26 on my L36 ICM?
#2 Could I use the a/c comp. from the L26?
Seems like it's the same length wise. Different mounting system for the L26, just alot simpler and straight forward.
#3 Sensors between the two seem to be the same. Could I keep the two knock sensors? And keep the extra oil, map, and temp sensors for spares?
#4 Do I do anything about the oil leak in the back?
Well what do you think? Let me know if anybody wants some other pics.
Thanks for all the help with this project.
I'll post more pics once I get it all cleaned up and the top all switched over.

Answers from the Swammi....

1) Yes. Coils and ICM will work just fine. Leave them.
2) No...the output ports are not clocked correctly.
3) Yes. In fact I think they may be less sensitive to knock than the S2s, but PCM will still be happy with them.
4) Never seen that one before on an S3. Pop off that flywheel and take the rear main seal off (its a plate) and replace it. Engine could have been sitting on its flywheel for a bit, but you'll never know. Replace it and reseal the oil pan.

I *might* be intersted in the entrails if the price is good enough....

Sandrock shoot me a pm on the price you are thinking and I'll let you know. This is a 77,000 mile motor just so you know. I can get some better pics of the endtrails if you would like.
Thanks for the info, I'll definently pull the flywheel off and see whats up.

Make sure to mark the flexplate so it goes back on in the same position. That way you ensure that you won't have any balancing issues.

Flexplate really only goes on one way. It has the possibility of going on 180° off if you force one of the bolts.

Remember that Firebird 3800 I was working on right before moving from Florida? Yeah...some idiot actually forced the flywheel on wrong. Told her I wasn't about to touch THAT issue.

Ok still in the process of cleaning and prepping for paint. Will post some pics soon of the progress of this swap.
I have a question about how to pull the rear main seal out of the back plate.
Do I have to take it to a shop that can press it out and press in a new one?

Or is there another way to do this that I am unaware of?

Is it common for the NA motors to have oil in the LIM? (were talking 77,000 miles)

Thanks

Yes its common...it's the PCV system throwing oil to the low points where it can't be burned. Blow-by also causes it.

As for the rear seal, you replace the plate IIRC. I never needed to when I did mine (My L26 only had 3k miles on it...I considered it a crate engine).

I don't seem to be finding the whole assembly. I have only found the seal itself and gasket for the back plate. This seems like the route I end up having to take unless somebody can point me in a different direction for the assembly.

So with that how do you pull that bugger out, and put it back in?
I don't want to wreck anything already. Just the one thing that I haven't had to do with working on my vehicles yet. This hasn't been bad so far for my first motor replacement.
Thanks for all the help and guidance.

Should I just take the rear main seal plate to somebody that can press it out, and install the new one? Do you need a special seal driver tool to install the new one to seat it correctly?
I'm kind of at a stall point in the motor swap. I just want to make sure I take care of everything before installing it in my car.

Thanks in advance,
Bing