PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Thanks for those pages...but any explanation on why the weight block is on some cars and not others?

Update - 7-12-2011

I got a bit of a late start today after the eye doctor dilated my pupils. First time I've ever had that done and it was massively uncool!
I could certainly see better by the afternoon and the sun was pounding (severe heat alert index) but I finally managed to get the steering wheel off. After several failed puller arrangements I finally put my feet against the floorboard and grunted hard while adding some side-to-side wiggle action and the wheel popped free. Not exactly "going berserk" LOL, but effective nonetheless.

I proceeded on with removing the column housing, console cover, cup holders, shift console cover (fixed my shift indicator...the guide pin was out of the hole) and instrument panel bezel. It seems my push clips in the top of the IP bezel were broken when I had my new head unit installed, so I'll need to replace those. Will any push type fastener work here?

Removal of the shift boot cracked the retainer ring but I think I can remedy that with some super glue. The new tan Wheelskins boot looks like it should fit nicely with some slight trimming.

After removing the various switches, I sanded and then alcohol cleaned all the pieces and sprayed a hi-temp aluminum base coat. I've found this works well as a primer on plastic with little to no fish-eye which makes a good surface for the color top coat. The black color coat went on nicely about an hour later, and I just finished some touch-up a few minutes ago.

Tomorrow I hope to re-assemble and have everything working. With regard to making the connection for the audio control wires, would anyone recommend a preferred method? Squeeze connectors seem like they would be too bulky with the limited space once the airbag goes back on. Soldering would make for better connection, but I dont have a solder gun.

Any other thoughts? btw...should I try to re-install the weight block? I'd have to drill some holes and use some tapping screws, but thats possible if need be.

I hope I get finished early enough tomorrow to snap some pics...I am stoked about how its going to look!

For those two clips that hold the dash bezel on, I have some, PM me.

Absolutely use a soldering gun, the thought of having that many squeeze connectors just screams botch job. I soldering iron will be like $10.

Don't worry about the weight block.

A decent soldering iron from wal-mart would be like haro said, $10, and it would do the job. Much better than a crimp connector...

Another hot one in southeast VA today, and even though we had some clouds, the humidity was miserable. With sweatbands and hand towels at the ready, I pressed on.

Most of the re-assembly went as planned with a few parts being stubborn going back in...not so unusual. Trimming the new shift boot turned out with me simply securing the leather with the retainer screws and some small flat washers. The new boot is a bit more sturdy leather than the original and the retainer ring just wasnt going on over it. The end result still seems to work fine.

The rattle that had started after my head unit install was discovered. The cover plate that surrounds the double-din unit was simply lying between the dash frame and bezel, so no big wonder it was buzzing at stoplights. I cut some thin strips of sticky-back weatherstrip foam and returned the plate to its location.

With all the dash panels back in, it was time to tackle the centerpiece, the GP steering wheel. I picked up a small soldering iron, and grit my teeth as I cut the connector from the Bonnie wheel. I knew this was the point of no return

I set up shop on the workbench, and between the sweat dripping from my soaked headband and my having difficulty seeing clearly what I was doing (as per my eye doc yesterday, my bifocals are about 2 power too weak) it felt like I was making a mess of things. I relocated to the dining room table and robbed my wife's Ott Light. Sadly, I admit I fell back on using some gold plated 20ga connectors, but since the wires were going into four single leads, I doubled the ends together and only used four connectors rather than eight. I bound them tightly together with electrical tape, and the whole she-bang fit nicely into the lower well of the GP wheel right where the original connector block clipped in.
The airbag snapped neatly into place and I was ready for the acid test. I hooked up the battery and started the car...no airbag explosion. The audio controls work like a charm, so only one item remained....

The Wheelskins steering wheel cover. This is tedious process of stitching through pre-punched holes, but pulling the mile of cord that is heavily coated with wax of some kind can get quite annoying. In my tugging and pulling to try and close the gap around the 10 & 2 bulges in the Pontiac wheel, the cord gave way and snapped. Luckily, I was able to repeat the starting procedure and tie the two ends, but the gap over that bulge is rather unsightly. By the time I finished I was completely sweat soaked, so I broke out the leather interior wipes to clean up before I took some pics.

(I weighed myself after getting out of the shower, and no exaggeration, I lost 6 pounds out there since this morning...yikes!)

Just for comparison, here is a previous shot of the interior taken after the head unit install...


(Drum roll please)...and the end result today...


Passenger side, door pull backplates, and the new tan shift boot


The new "Bonnie the Ghosthawk" steering wheel medallion


Console, cup holders, and you can see the gap in the wheel cover where the cord broke....arrgh


All in, a lot of effort but I love the end result. I am pretty frustrated with myself for botching the solder and snapping the wheel cover cord...and while I could have waited to get some one with better eyeballs (or when my new glasses come in) but part of me didnt want the car sitting here in pieces for another week. I start 4-12 tomorrow and I am woeful about getting anything done on that shift. I suppose if it winds up giving me trouble I can pull it back off later (since I do have the tools now LOL) and tackle it then. Hopefully things will hold steady. I should get to check out if the audio button lights work later tonight.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this one...I truly appreciate your input.

Now I can wear my black t-shirt from Cafepress...

i love it!

way to make your bonneville that much more one of a kind

That is really a great look, and I have to admit I "borrowed" your awesome graphic for my wallpaper about a month ago. Nice job, time to sit back and enjoy a beverage I'd say.

however after a lil bit of driving i would try re wrapping that steering wheel

I like it, but I don't think you're done. You should paint the vents, foglight switch, DIC controls, ignition bezel, key bumper, hazard switch, etc...

I kind of like the black/tan contrast...but I must admit the DIC control panel does bother me a touch since its the old color of the dash as opposed to the same tan as the vents and other switches.

I agree, all the switches/controls either need to be painted or replaced with their black counterparts (which would allow for the lettering to still be visible)

I'm on the fence about the vents. but the other things for sure

I've never seen the switches in black...just grey...which I think would look even worse.

The gap in the steering wheel cover isnt loose, it just isnt closed around the 2 o'clock bulge. I dont know if Wheelskins sells their cordage seperately, but it will be awhile before I subject myself to doing that again...or at least much cooler weather.

All of these details will be going on the back burner for now as there are more pressing things to be attended to. A few more parts and gaskets to be collected and I'll be tearing into the LIM project.

I also have rotors and painting calipers, and since those parts are here they'll be going on soon as well.

At this point I'm just happy the steering wheel idea worked as well as it did (and all the audio switch lights are working, so there is an improvement over the old unit already)

Huge props, I like the color contrast as well and remember it is FULLY about what you like. Plus coloring all the controls means losing their labeling, which I believe would be very hard to put back on. I tried looking up wheels but there always seperated from their airbags lol

Very Nice! I like what you have going on there, but I agree with haro, it doesn't quite look finished.


The steering wheel looks awesome though!

Def. looks good, but I agree that you're not 100% done yet. Most definitely need to paint around the DIC buttons and the key bezel at least.

swampy, there is no black DIC button trim, there's only one color of it for all bonnevilles, IIRC. Only the color of the buttons is different.

I was thinking of the dimmer switch it comes in black iirc

InfiniteRiddles wrote:Huge props, I like the color contrast as well and remember it is FULLY about what you like. Plus coloring all the controls means losing their labeling, which I believe would be very hard to put back on. I tried looking up wheels but there always seperated from their airbags lol

I had to buy my wheel and airbag seperately as well. I wound up getting both of mine from an eBay store called "LKQ online"...but I did do A LOT of shopping looking for both a good price and the proper GP wheel. 04-05 models used a cruise control switch sticking out from the lower right. The switch can easily be left off but that leaves a hole in the back cover. Any GP that came with Tap Shift will have paddles on the wheel and I wanted no part of that issue. Most any GT model came with audio controls but you'll need an 06 for no cruise switch in the wheel.

GP airbags for the 04-up only come in gray and ebony...even car with tan interior still had grey/ebony dash/console/wheel.

Too much contrast for me, and the steering wheel, ehhhh..... Maybe if the interior was gray.

But yeah Id get all the other things painted to match what ya got goin on to make it look "finished".

But at least it doesnt look half assed, so I do have to give props to the execution of the project!

I guess I hit my first glitch today. I'm assuming the mute button switch has gone bad since my radio is trying to mute all the time. It went in and out of mute rapidly a few times and then solid on.

All of the other functions seem to be working fine. Its possible I may have damaged the switch during the removal process in oreder to paint the steering wheel spoke covers. The clips that held them in were incredibly stubborn and clearance was so close even my plastic interior tools were too bulky to get in, so I was forced to resort to a thin knife blade. The switches appeared completely unscathed in the process, but pressing hard on the buttons from the front trying to help force the switch out might have damaged the contacts.

Lucky for me, my Pioneer head unit allows you to bypass "mute mode" altogether if you wish, so I do still have access to music in the meantime...but it looks like I'll be hunting some replacement GP switches. I know Morad Parts will have them, but he isnt always the best price. At least I dont have to pull the wheel again, just the airbag :D