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Before I go and proceed with VATS this is also what I noticed:

1. From time to time I do not have inside car lights as I think it gets jammed by the key lock at the ignition

Could the VATS problem be coming from key ignition lock and how to replace it and diagnose it.

Thanks,
Larry

As I will replace the fuel pump, I am thinking to replace the fuel tank too, since the job has the same cost, I rather do it all so hopefully never have to come back to it as my tank I believe is nearing the life end.

I am thinking to purchase the new fuel tank and to prime it and protect it well as here in Canada with our weather lots of moisture gets in between the tank and car body and these are ideal conditions to rust.

In order I have no surprises, would you guys know if:
1. My fuel tank has fuel pressure sensor on top of it? (Some part store say yes some no)
2. Do I need to replace fuel pressure sensor?

Thanks,
Larry

SECURITY ISSUE:

From time to time, as I arrive to a halt and cut my engine, then I withdraw the key. Normally after that the interior light must come on. But sometimes it does not, and have a delay to do that, or sometimes I need to move the ignition lock without the key so it gets in good position and the interior light comes on, but not always (even trying to turn interior lights with the interior light switch is disabled).

Does that sound more like the voltage missing in the ignition control unit, or worn ignition lock?

Suggestions, which one to tackle, and if it is worth it.

I may think it is all connected to loose contacts, because my steering audio volume and radio search controls were out of the light for about 3 years, now the light on the radio search on the steering wheel again came to life. I suspect the loose contacts. Where to find them and how to recheck them, maybe with contact cleaner?

Thanks,
Larry

laimisl wrote:SECURITY ISSUE:

From time to time, as I arrive to a halt and cut my engine, then I withdraw the key. Normally after that the interior light must come on. But sometimes it does not, and have a delay to do that, or sometimes I need to move the ignition lock without the key so it gets in good position and the interior light comes on, but not always (even trying to turn interior lights with the interior light switch is disabled).

Does that sound more like the voltage missing in the ignition control unit, or worn ignition lock?

Suggestions, which one to tackle, and if it is worth it.

I may think it is all connected to loose contacts, because my steering audio volume and radio search controls were out of the light for about 3 years, now the light on the radio search on the steering wheel again came to life. I suspect the loose contacts. Where to find them and how to recheck them, maybe with contact cleaner?

Thanks,
Larry

You may have better luck reaching electrical experts by posting this question in the electrical section, Larry.

Thanks Bill for your reply.

If anybody would answer to 2 questions below, I would be thankful:
1. Does my fuel tank has fuel pressure sensor on top of it? (Some parts stores say yes some no)
2. Do I need to replace fuel pressure sensor? What indicates bad fuel pressure sensor in the tank?

I need these replies so I am ready with the parts as I will replace the fuel pump, I am thinking to replace the fuel tank too, since the job has the same cost, I rather do it all so hopefully never have to come back to it as my tank I believe is nearing the life end.

I am thinking to purchase the new fuel tank and to prime it and protect it well as here in Canada with our weather lots of moisture gets in between the tank and car body and these are ideal conditions to rust.

So would appreciate your replies that would prevent me from surprises during these parts replacement.

PS: my car is dead today (SECURITY ISSUE), security light doesn't stay on anymore, but it flashes as I try to start the engine. Fuel pump make the sound, the fuel valve clicks, but it does not allow for crank. As I try to crank, nothing happens, clock on the radio and ext temp data shuts off during the pre crank time, nothing cranks. I give this is final VATS failure, so installing resistance very soon now.

Thanks,
Larry

There is a sensor on the tank that is used by the evap system. You shouldn't need a new one unless you've been throwing a code for the evap system. It has nothing to do with fuel pressure, iirc it measures the amount of vacuum in the tank.

Thank you Michael, noted re fuel tank pressure sensor. Great. I know it is not connected to the fuel pressure though.

Larry.

Archon,

Thank you very much for this link: http://vats.likeabigdog.com/, that helps greatly with the VATS problem.

So as finally my reader for the resistance in the Key died, I have used this info and it all worked out just great!

Car starts just like new now, no more SECURITY lights on or flashing.

By the way, this formula help you to get the required resistance much easier, as I needed to have 0.683, so I used 1x2.2 and 1x1, that I have connected parallel and still got the required 0.683., so I have connected 2.2 and 1 in parallel and got the needed 0.682! Great.

Formula is: Required resistance of parallel connection is = 1 / {(1/R1) + (1/R2) + .... +(1/RN)}

Cheers,

Larry

Hello there,

Finally update.

I have changed the fuel tank (as old was rusted and not reliable, painted the new one with rocker guard rubberized protection spray paint, hope not to have problems with tank ever), then changed the fuel pump.

And guess what.

The fuel pressure when ignition on is 55psi.

When engine on 45 psi.

After engine off, in 10 minutes it falls to 35 psi and stays stable.

And yes, even when it is warm 77F (24C abt.) it starts right from the half turn.

Thank you Bill and all of you guys, that was the pump.

I will watch the fuel consumption and will let you know, as with old pump it was getting bad.

Thanks,
Larry

That's great news, Larry. Thanks for posting to let us know how it turned out. I hope it starts when it's cold too!

80 T Stat everyones telling me is good

Just an update.

It is -15C, or 5F, and car starts quite easy. It is uncompilable to how it used to start last year.

Now I just turn little once. And the second turn it nicely fires up.

Surely was bad gas pump.

Thank you all for help. Thank you Bill.

By the way anybody knows how to fix MAF sensor? Mine is nearly to die, and it just lasted 3 years or so. Is there any way how to sauder in some resistors or replace resistors that it has. I understand it is made of resistors.

Please let me know.

Thanks,

Larry

Junkyard for that one. Maybe somebody will be willing to help.

I haven't read the whole thread. Have you tried cleaning your MAF, or is it well and truly near-death?

i remeber reading this post last year, and sadley i had nothing to offer as far as advice . but i do have a spare module for you that i would be willing to ship you... for free . if you want to pm me and give the sensor # to make sure it is the same

laimisl wrote:Just an update.

It is -15C, or 5F, and car starts quite easy. It is uncompilable to how it used to start last year.

Now I just turn little once. And the second turn it nicely fires up.

Surely was bad gas pump.

Thank you all for help. Thank you Bill.

By the way anybody knows how to fix MAF sensor? Mine is nearly to die, and it just lasted 3 years or so. Is there any way how to sauder in some resistors or replace resistors that it has. I understand it is made of resistors.

Please let me know.

Thanks,

Larry

Really glad to hear it is starting for you now even in the cold, Larry. If you find a way to repair an MAF sensor, let us know! They're pretty expensive to buy new. The only thing I know to do with them is to clean the little wires carefully with rubbing alcohol. If that fails, I can only second the suggestions of others to pick one up in a junkyard or maybe a cheap used one from e-bay, or even from our own "wanted" forum. Of course, if some one offers you one for free, you can't do much better than that!

Yes the offer is great and I would like to accept it.

My sensor # is: AFH50M-04.

If I will ever figure how to fix them I will share my knowledge with pleasure.

Anybody knows the 2 resistance ratings that are in the MAF sensor head hole?

Thanks,

Larry

laimisl wrote: Anybody knows the 2 resistance ratings that are in the MAF sensor head hole?

They're not resistors.

Unfortunately, you can't just replace it with a couple of resistors, or even thermistors. This is a short description of the MAF.

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is located in the MAF sensor housing between the air inlet duct and the throttle body. The MAF senses the amount of air entering the intake manifold. This information is required by the PCM to control fuel delivery and emissions.

The MAF sensor used on this vehicle is a hot wire type and is used to measure air flow rate (mass/unit time). The MAF sensor output is a variable frequency square wave based on the air mass traveling through the sensor. A low frequency output signal from the MAF sensor indicates low air flow. A high frequency indicates a high air flow. The MAF sensor has 2 wires crossing the air stream through the sensor. One wire senses the ambient temperature and the other, the hot wire, is kept at a temperature fixed above the ambient temperature. The MAF sensor senses air flow by measuring the power necessary to keep the hot wire hot, which is proportional to air flow, and converts this to a frequency modulate output signal.

Hi Harper,

I wrote the MAF sensor part number. Is yours the same?

Could you ship it to me?

I will PM you my address.

Thanks,

Larry

Hi guys,

What is the voltage or OHMS of teh MAF sensor, what is general testing procedure for it?

Thanks,

Larry