lololol, have another update

[yourgrandma]

Come get it. I dont want to look at it.

[MattStrike]

What happened?

[yourgrandma]

Well i had thought I had sufficient clearance between the oil pump cover and the timing chain. When I went to put on the oil pan I realised that torquing down the harmonic damper cut down that clearance to almost nothing. So now of course the whole front of the stupid thing has to come apart so I can mill the *dang* oil pump cover like I should have before putting it all together.

In short: I am completely useless and should just get a carolla and drive it around like a normal *fook* person.

[MattStrike]

Well, that's not so bad. You should see my goof-up that I still haven't fixed...

Isn't there enough room to just put a spacer between the block and timing cover?

[yourgrandma]

A lot ofpeople run two front cover gaskets but I don't like that idea myself. All I need is about .020, so ill just get the zzp pump cover.And be done with it.

[yourgrandma]

Now that Ive calmed down a bit, I guess Ill pull the harmonic balancer today and get the front cover back off.

Also need to figure out how to make a return to rock auto. Got a rear hub by mistake.

[Jfridge92]

Breathe in, breathe out, and ship me that motor when you're done

In all seriousness, at least these are minor setbacks and easy fixes. Glad to see that it's almost together and done!

[Sadden]

Yeah but lots of little things can add up on a build like this..

[yourgrandma]

Okay, back at it. In getting the blower and intercooler ready to mount up, I figured out a much more elegant way to make pcv fully functional.

Try to bear with me, I'm posting on my phone whilst taking a little break.

So a little background on how pcv is supposed to work: on a stock engine, crank case gasses are sucked up from a port in the lim, into the blower case, through the pcv valve and into the blower through a port just ahead of the rotors. This puts a vacuum on the crank case, so it needs a vent to allow a flow of air. This vent comes from a port in the lim on the opposite side. I'm not completely certain what the entire route entails, but long story short, this vent allows air back into the crank case.

Usually in intercooler setups this vent is ignored and blocked off in favor of a hose from the front valve cover to the throttle body, or a breather for the particularly lazy. However, I've discovered that the mysterious nipple on the side of the blower actually connects with this vent circuit. Simply put, all I have to do is connect this nipple to the nipple on my throttle body and I have a very simple, clean and effective pcv system. If flow becomes a problem, I can always add a hose to the valve cover.

I'll put pics up with captions and such when I'm on a computer.

[deano55]

lol, "particularly lazy".You mean all these years with people like Intense,WBS and ZZP and they never figured out what that nipple is for? And how to run a PVC cleanly?

[yourgrandma]

So it would seem. I mean, a breather is just lazy. The line from the valve cover to the throttle body isn't bad and might flow better than what I did, so I may end up doing that.

Thing to remember is that the vendors aren't usually engineers, and are definately not infallible. Look at the fuel pump options we have, look at how much custom work is involved in making a double roller timing set work. They don't know everything, and neither do I, but I can see some lackluster engineering in a lot of products.

[yourgrandma]

Oh, got the engine in yesterday.

[sethjamesrimrodt]

Oh, got the engine in yesterday.

[BonneMe]

lol, "particularly lazy".You mean all these years with people like Intense,WBS and ZZP and they never figured out what that nipple is for? And how to run a PVC cleanly?

Wouldn't surprise me...

[yourgrandma]

I havent been really keeping up on updating this, mostly because my phone refuses to upload pics to photobucket.

I got the headers in and together but still working on getting the wrap to work around the clamps. Also want different bolts.

I have to hack apart the engine harness to get it to fit, which shouldnt be TOO bad.

Biggest news, of course, is the lack of clearance to close the hood. A few ideas have come up, but I think modifying the hood will be neccesary.

[yourgrandma]

Working on getting the fuel likes to fit. I decided the best way to go would be to convert the nylon lines to braided -AN hose.

So first i have to adapt from the 3/8 supply hard line to -6an male. Swagelok is the answer and prices vary wildy. Have to call the local supplier today, but the part I need is SS-600-6-6AN.

From that, I could build my own hoses, but I think a couple pre made 3' hoses from Jegs will work just dandy. It costs about $3 more per hose to buy them pre made but that means no cutting or messing with connectors I could bugger up.

From the -6an hose, I need a male -an to female GM quick connect adapter to connect to the rail. Again, Jegs has what I need in P/N 555-103101 for the supply and 555-103100 for the return side.

From there its another -6 hose to the return side hardline where I have to adapt the -an to NPT because swagelok doesnt seem to have a 5/16 tube to -6AN adapter. So a Jegs 555-100106 adapts -6AN to 3/8 NPT and Jegs 555-105422 couples the two male NPT fittings.

This solution should work pretty well and look nice, plus I wont have to deal with those nylon lines and the headache that entails.

[yourgrandma]

Been poking away at this for the past few weekends. I think I have my hood clearance issue figured out but i need to machine some spacers for the outboard motor and trans mounts and alter my front and rear mounts. I could easily get by without messing with the rear one but id rather not shift any more weight forward.

The -AN fuel lines worked out pretty nicely but I may shorten the hoses and get angled hose ends to make the fit as perfect as possible. As it sits, the fuel hose project was about $120, so not the cheapest option, but it looks nice and should be the safest.




Im also still working on trying to get the throttle cables to sit right and not bend too tightly. With the TB upside down the cables come in closer to the stock location but its still not perfect. The cruise control cable is the biggest problem. I need to look into a shorter cable.

Heres a side view with the engine in its normal position. I suppose it would have been clever of me to take one with it in its lower position where it will sit with the spacers, etc, but im not that smart, am I?


Heres how it sits at the moment.


Ignore the TB turndown; it wont be used.


So hopefully I can get the rest of the harness all hooked up and tucked as neatly as I can manage within the next few days, then all I really need is a fuel pump canister I can put my walbro 255 in. Im also shopping for ATF. Its looking like Ill probably run Amsoil synthetic or Royal Purple.

[yourgrandma]

Couple little updates. I made spacers for the outboard engine/trans mounts but I cant seem to get them in without some considerable backtracking. Instead, Im going to be lazy about it and make two-piece spacers that bolt together around the studs of the mounts. That way I dont have to remove the brackets from the engine and trans.

Between lowering the engine .600" and a new crossover hose for the fuel rails, I think I can get away with very little work on the hood, just to clear the vacuum tree.

Got a stock fuel pump from Andrew, so i should be able to pressure test my hoses and rails with that, but I also have a racetronix venturii style pump for a grand prix on the way. As far as I know, it should work fine. Also got a couple pullies (3.2 and 2.8) and an intercooler coolant reservoir from the same seller.

Im starting to get a cold right now, so I probably wont even see the garage today. Not a very productive weekend.

[yourgrandma]

Couple little updates. I made spacers for the outboard engine/trans mounts but I cant seem to get them in without some considerable backtracking. Instead, Im going to be lazy about it and make two-piece spacers that bolt together around the studs of the mounts. That way I dont have to remove the brackets from the engine and trans.

Between lowering the engine .600" and a new crossover hose for the fuel rails, I think I can get away with very little work on the hood, just to clear the vacuum tree.

Got a stock fuel pump from Andrew, so i should be able to pressure test my hoses and rails with that, but I also have a racetronix venturii style pump for a grand prix on the way. As far as I know, it should work fine. Also got a couple pullies (3.2 and 2.8) and an intercooler coolant reservoir from the same seller.

Im starting to get a cold right now, so I probably wont even see the garage today. Not a very productive weekend.

[00Beast]

Can't wait to see this all together bud. Can't wait to ride in it either!