1984 GMC K2500 Sierra Classic

[MattStrike]

I managed to connect the old LeSabre steering column to the adapter and EPS finally. Some things to work out, are the adapter doesn't really fit to the column axially, so as it rotates it "wobbles" ever so slightly, but that seems to be because of the set screws. The adapter is a Borgeson BRG-315249 that I chucked into the lathe and cut down to fit the EPS input shaft on. The adapter is about 1.25" OD, so is the input shaft. In the process of turning the adapter down, I found that it's a tubing piece welded on the ends to the adapter pieces, so once I was close the center piece separated from the tubing piece while turning. I could have saved some serious machine time if I'd figured that out earlier, but oh well. So I improvised. The center piece fits about 3/4" into the EPS input shaft (taken from the steering column) and then the remaining 3/4" fits into the adapter tube piece. The center piece on the EPS side was still a little big to fit into the EPS input shaft, by about .060. So I had to turn down that end of the center piece to fit the EPS input shaft. Once everything was a nice fit (snug, but not too tight), I fit the center piece to the EPS input shaft and slid it back into the Borgeson adapter - then TIG welded the three pieces in three passes. First was fit the center piece back to the adapter, second was to fit the EPS to the center piece, and the final weld was a slower, high-current weld to tie everything together.

I still need to crack check the weld, can't have this one failing on me! But it's on the input side of the EPS so the only time it should ever see full steering force is if the EPS overheats, or I try to turn the wheel with the key off. Still can't wait to test this out! Key: on. Engine: off. Power steering: yes!!

[BonnieBoy08]

Will be a very nice setup when it's all done. Sounds very custom but you're getting it all sorted out. Better be laying dimes on those welds! Your life depends on it lol but I'm sure it will be fine.

[MattStrike]

So I think it's safe to say that the weather has broke over here finally. Projected highs are in the 60's for the next 10 days, so I expect to be able to get outside and clean up the mess I made changing brakes this winter - get the welding tanks refilled - and get back on task!

[MattStrike]

I've been making slow progress, despite the lack of updates.

Steering column from the LeSabre was modified and fit to the truck
Steering column lower mount modified to accept a cable shifter
Had to make room for the cable, and add a firewall pass through
Made a mount plate to hold the EPS shaft cover.
Made a mount bracket to rigidly mount the EPS to the cab

So at this point the steering system is almost done, all I have left is a bracket to hold the steering gear and get a pitman arm.

Wiring is almost done, just have to finish connecting the neutral safety switch and speed sensor. Then I'll need to finish the power distribution and wire in the batteries and alternators. And I need to find a new connector for the tank switch in the cab, mine has corrosion issues and should be replaced.

Exhaust is complete through the down pipes, what's left is to add the flex joints, piping to the resonators, and whatever else I want to do for tail pipes.

Then I have to finish the brake lines to the front wheels and brake switch.

Once that's done, it's top off the fluids, double check that all my bolts are torqued down, and see if it starts. If everything looks OK I can put the grille and the rest of the body stuff back together. Getting close!

[MattStrike]

I had some fun locating some Packard type 56 wire terminals. Hopefully that's what I need to re-wire the headlights with all new 14 gauge wiring, ended up with a custom relay harness install that's integrated into the factory wire harness.

[MattStrike]

Dare I say it? Wiring is almost done. At least, the stuff under the hood. I need to fix the trailer harness, I've set it up to use relays (mounted near the rear plug) to trigger the trailer lighting. I've been keeping my 3D printer busy with wire clips, grommets, mounting brackets, and things like that. The battery cables and power distribution need to be put in yet.

I've ordered the master cylinder, and disc/disc proportioning valve I need for the brakes. That was a lot more difficult that it needed to be. I'm going to be using the '00 C3500 master cylinder from a 4-wheel disc brake setup. The confusing part is that none of the retailers make it clear which MC is which, and the C3500 was available with either disc/drum or disc/disc... The 4 wheel disc MC has a 40mm piston, and you can't get it from Autozone or anywhere like that. O'rielly is the only local chain that can get it, for upwards of $200. The key was figuring out that it was the 40mm piston option that correlates to the 4 wheel disc brake setup. RockAuto has several options for the 40mm MC from $50-$100 once you know what you're looking for. The part that I found most frustrating was that retailers that don't stock the rear disc MC don't even tell you that the *shoot* they are peddling wouldn't have worked properly with a 4 wheel disc setup, yet are perfectly happy to either tell you what they have is going to work, or even worse is that you don't know what you're talking about and the C3500 never had rear disc brakes (and then you have them look up the rear disc brake pads and they are in stock...).

I also had to order an aftermarket (Summit) disc/disc combination valve, surprisingly that was really easy. There is a way to convert a disc/drum valve to a disc/disc valve, but when I disassembled my combination valve every seal was disintegrated, had they been O-rings it would have been a no-brainer, but they were lip seals... And good luck finding a rebuild kit or part numbers for them. I mean, I would have thought that Detroit of all places, I could have found anything and everything I'd ever wanted for a car project - But no. If they had come out in one piece I could have measured them, and possibly sources replacements, but they didn't. I guess, if it was that bad to begin with, I was not far away from having a critical failure anyway, so maybe this is the better option after all.

[BonnieBoy08]

Dang that sounds like quite the run around! Sounds like you're getting it sorted out though, will this be ready to roll to the show? If yes, you should film your arrival to see the priceless look on people's faces.

[MattStrike]

We'll see about this being ready by then. It's possible if I can keep working at it like I've managed to do the last few weeks.

[MattStrike]

Someday I'm going to post more pictures. I've been keeping you guys in the dark for a bit now.

Anyhow, put some power to the truck today. No smoke, no exploding fuses, and the SES light comes on! Looks like things might be working out after all! I need to figure out my lower radiator hose and finish hooking up the turbo cold side and fill up some fluids and prime the oil system before I try turning the key though. Exhaust still not done, steering still not done, but there's not much left to finish!

[MattStrike]

Ok, Ok, you all have strong armed me into this...

Pictures!

This is the all-important, you cannot buy it, have to custom make it adapter for the steering column. This connects directly to the end of the LeSabre steering column and the EPS input - I'm using the lathe to hold the two pieces perfectly co-axially to weld them. Before you all go ape *shoot*... This is the only welded component, it's on the input side (read, low torque) of the EPS.


Nothing to see here, just a modified steering column support to work with the column shift:


3D printed PETg parts to replace broken parts, and a few mounting brackets (more on PETg later):


What's all this? Well, it's very high strand count 4 gauge and 0 gauge wire!


Getting some of those pesky body panels installed now:


Revision 1.0, working with rareparts.com to come up with a pitman arm that works with the manual steering gear and the 4WD steering. 3D printed parts helping out. (Still trying to find the illusive Dana 44 4x4 manual steering farm truck from 1975 that has this non-wear part from the factory).


More 3D printed parts! And, yes, I know the one cooler is mounted at a slight angle. But *fook* it, nobody will notice once the grille is on.


Here are my custom printed power and ground distribution points:


What you see here - 50a trailer harness power, 80a EPS, and 120a Winch (wires not connected yet) - another 3D printed part, MIDI fuse holder! Also, those are all the relays, and the power distrubution block I've added:


Looking at the turbos and the scavenge pump, from below:


Things are really starting to shape up after all!


And, *fook* it, more 3D printed parts! This one keeps the hose off the pulley.


Yet another part that needed 3D printing to attach it again after 40 years:


The latest iteration of pitman arm, which is going to cost a lot more than the first one.


Dear god, really, more 3D printed parts? How the hell did people ever restore cars before now?!



So, finally, after many things have been done, this is how it sits now:





After taking a few iterations, I've dialed in on some of the random parts (headlight mount grommets, the grille trim mount tabs) and am printing the final batch of parts there.

One thing I've learned, using the Camaro as a test mule, is that PETg is not stable at under-hood temperatures. So, unfortunately, those parts will most likely end up needing to be replaced with ABS.

[MattStrike]

Got a few things done recently:





There are just so many little things that don't translate well to a photo, but just look at those wires!!!

[MattStrike]

In other news; something arrived in the mail today.

It only took 11 weeks, but here it is!



I'm signed up for a waterjetting class at the local techshop. Once I learn how to use the machine I'll have free access to waterjet the parts for the steering gear adapter. So, just as a final check, I did a basic FEA on the model.


According to my calulations, I could put my full body weight into turning the steering wheel and the adapter would only have 0.2mm of static deflection (assuming the tires were locked against something and couldn't turn). So It's probably a little over-engineered. But this is one part that absolutely cannot fail.

[MattStrike]

This project is not dead yet lol.

From Concept to CAD to 3D printer to final part:


1/4" stainless steel. Designed to be cut on a water jet, then like a puzzle lock together and welded.

But I know you guys, you don't see an end in sight on this project... Well, I do! All that's left to do:
-exhaust from the downpipes back (I have all the stainless parts I need, bends, resonators, adapters, clamps, etc)
-Shim the core support
-Adjust the mounting bracket on the column for the shifter cable
-3D print a couple of mounting clips to keep the VSS wire out of the exhaust path
-Fill everything with fluids, prime the engine oil
-Install the steering gearbox and connect the steering linkages
-First start/debugging.

Once it's out of my garage I'll have to fix the back half of the trailer wiring harness and put tires on it. I've got one other thing to do yet, and I'll be starting back on this again next week.

[MattStrike]

Got almost half of the exhaust done. One of my adapters went missing, so that held up progress. As it sits, the drivers side is done up to the axle, and the passenger side the downpipe is complete and I'm tacking in the pipe that bends around the transfer case.

The drivers side down pipe, very simple. It goes into the flex joint and then the catalytic.


Joint and transition from 2.5 to 3, including my special stainless steel exhaust hangars.


Getting a bit frustrated with my butt welds, seems like the filler rod I'm using has been causing some of the apperance issues yet. But the weld to the V-band flange? Probably one of my best yet.


The passenger side down-pipe all done!


And finally, the steering system is done!

[BonnieBoy08]

Looking good! Those welds keep getting better too.

[MattStrike]

It's alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.facebook.com/matthew.styx/v ... 782988541/

Except I can't figure out how to watch that on my computer, works on my phone through facebook...

Well, anyway, going way way way the *fook* back, this engine had randomly stopped working when my younger brother was driving it across MI to get his g-body prix out here (long story, his engine swap died and whatnot). I had this theory, apparently a very good one, that the crank sensor or maybe another wiring issue was the root cause. I was right. I bought a new crank sensor, but left it on the shelf, during the reconditioning of the motor. I did everything, but left the crank sensor.

So this morning, after finding I had no fuel pressure late last night (and no engergy or motivation left after a long weekend of workign on it), I figured out two things. 1: I'm smarter than I give myself credit for. When I wired up my fuel pumps, I ran extra wire so that I could put both on a single metripack connector a the same location, just in case I read the wiring schematic wrong and got the left/right backwards. Well, that paid off, because I followed the schematics to a T and guess what? They were wrong. I figured it out after selecting the LH tank and the RH pump was running, dead-heading agianst the tank select valve, and spraying gas everywhere. I managed to see some fuel pressure build up while the tank was switching, but as soon as the valve switched over the pressure fell off again. Once I figured out what was going on, and switched the fuel pump power wires (and fixed some fuel lines) all was well.

Now that I had 50psi at the fuel rail, this thing should start, right?

It did not. Again. So that brings us back to the crank sensor. I wanted to know if I was right, I never changed it out. Well, fuel pressure was a go, but cranking it revealed that spark was not. Cue the new sensor that is sitting on my shelf ready to go!..........*fook*, seriously, where did it go? Oh, thats' right, #2, I let my other brother use it to try to fix his '94!!!!!!! Well, guess what? it's gone becaus, he scrapped that car after giving up on it. I spent 2 hours looking through my house, pole barn, garage, every car, etc.... I had to be sure, but nothing. So, yet another parts run... and $30 later:

So here I am, third time's a charm, right?.......
..
..
..
And that's where the video above comes in!
Third time was the charm, that old 3800 fired up like it hadn't been sitting for 4+ years.

It's just too bad that the VATS on the OBD2 computer shuts it off right away. But this is the point in a project where I get a refresh on my motivation to complete it.

So aside from the fuel leak, once I was able to start the engine, I found two other leaks. First, the turbos were leaking oil from the downpipes. That means we have to go back to the pretzel:


The history here, is I made a custom oil distribution block, with 1/4" holes suplying the turbo oil lines (in theory, the original lines being 1/4", with no restrictors, this was all I should need to do):


Well, that was not sufficient, as indicated by the smokeshow that accompanied the video. So the quest was on to find a zero cost option to restrict the oil flow. And this is what I came up with:


That's a 3/8 copper pipe cap, next to the 1/2MIP to 1/2 hose barb that screws into the distribution block. I used a 1/2" wobble extension to press the ends of the caps out so they would have an interference fit to the brass fitting, and pressed them in:








Once that was done, I simply drilled a .065" (1/16") hole in the middle, reinstalled. Cost me $0.67 for the two fittings. Backyard engineering at it's finest!




And, just when I thought everything was good to go, and 4 gallons of coolant later (it's a big radiator)...:


The bypass port on the aluminum timing chain cover apparently cracked at some point, and is leaking coolant. I tapped and plugged it, part of flipping the intake manifold around, but missed this little oops that is currently dripping all that fresh coolant back into another catch can...

I'm working on another solution, I'm probably going to remove the plug and use a silicone cap and clamp it on below the crack for now.

[MattStrike]

Current battle:

1991 3800, and most associated sensors. 1998 Bonneville PCM (flashed to the GP operating system that gives no *fook*). 2004 GP MAS, L67 knock sensors, series 1 (I think 1994 PAU) L67 injectors, no transmission electronics, etc.

It starts and runs for about 3 seconds, then dies. It's not VATs, was tuned to delete VATS and account for the sensors it has. No relevent SES codes present.

If I hold the throttle down a bit, it will ping and misfire. Starting to think that the one turbo is not spinning, but it really reminds me of when my LG3 had a plugged catalytic converter. That's not the case here, but can a turbo not spinning plug the exhuast enough to case issues?

[MattStrike]

The engine will start and run for a few seconds, then start to misfire and die. I pulled the intake pipes off and verified that both turbos are indeed spinning. So now I have to figure out what isn't working. I don't have O2 sensors on it, but looks like I'll be adding them tonight just to rule that out.

Parts I've ruled out by swapping. PCM, ICM, coils. Parts I've ruled out by unplugging/removing them (and no change) are the MAS, MAP, TPS, IAC, IAT, Cam Sensor, oil cap (excessive crankcase pressure).

I plan to throw the vac gauge on it and do a leakdown test tonight. Starting to wonder if flipping the intake around caused a problem with PCV and is a massive vacuum leak or something.

Side note, looks like I need to do something like this to keep oil from backing up in the turbochargers...

[MattStrike]

So I'm working on the turbo issue first. Have to wait until the weekend before I can tackle the other issue.

Now that I've figured out what I need to do to make a successful aluminum weld (had to put a gas lense on my torch), I'm scratch building a vented tank with 3/4" drains for the turbos to drain into. The other half of this, is the supply lines are basically 1/2". I don't really want to use restrictors if I don't have to, so first thing I'm going to do here is change the lines to 3/8". With both turbos draining straight down into a vented tank I shouldn't have any more issues with oil leaking past the turbo seals, just have to watch the oil pressure to make sure it's not too low.

[MattStrike]

Got a few things done. I think I've solved the turbo oil drain issues. The new drain lines are both 7/8" ID and they drain directly into a vented tank, which feeds the scavenge pump. I removed the restricters and reduced the feed line size. Seems like I solved the oil leaking issue, might have some residual in the intake side of the turbos to clean up but otherwise seems OK.

Next up I added O2 sensors, then wrapped the down pipes up to the catalytic converters. Had to open up my wire harness and dig up some appropriate colored wires for the O2 sensors, and need to do some bracket re-prints for the added wire harness. I fixed they bypass tube fitting leak on the timing cover, and think I might know what's going on with the not wanting to idle issue (more on that later once I figure out for sure).

Making the oil drain tank:


Installed:


5/8" cap on the bypass port"


And some nicer welds: