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Changed the oil/filter and the intake/exhaust VVT solenoids on my Regal.

The rear of the Bonneville is coming along.

Rear passenger caliper was seized and the pad material was completely gone. That entire corner has been taken apart and rebuilt with a new hub assembly, rotor, pads, caliper, brake hose, control arm and swaybar end link. All that's left is to bleed the caliper.

On the driver's side rear, it's been disassembled but the brake line seized to the connector and when trying to brake the nut loose it tore the line off. I'm forging ahead, and the control arm, swaybar end link and hub are already on. Just have to put the rotor, pads, caliper, and hose on and then wait for a couple weeks for the new brake line to show up.

In the meantime I'll move onto the front and replace the rotors, pads, calipers, and hoses there. Hopefully without any more incidents.

Namrepus28 wrote:The rear of the Bonneville is coming along.

Rear passenger caliper was seized and the pad material was completely gone. That entire corner has been taken apart and rebuilt with a new hub assembly, rotor, pads, caliper, brake hose, control arm and swaybar end link. All that's left is to bleed the caliper.

On the driver's side rear, it's been disassembled but the brake line seized to the connector and when trying to brake the nut loose it tore the line off. I'm forging ahead, and the control arm, swaybar end link and hub are already on. Just have to put the rotor, pads, caliper, and hose on and then wait for a couple weeks for the new brake line to show up.

In the meantime I'll move onto the front and replace the rotors, pads, calipers, and hoses there. Hopefully without any more incidents.

The rotor, pads, caliper, and hose are installed on the driver's side rear. Unfortunately it looks like the parking brake cable for that side is seized up pretty good. No amount of wrestling with it will loosen it up.

I'll leave them both disconnected and just ask the shop to replace all the parking brake cables when I'm done with everything else. What a pain.

I'm going to toss the wheels on tomorrow, chock them so the car doesn't roll away, and get started on the front brakes while I wait for the brake line.

Namrepus28 wrote:

Namrepus28 wrote:The rear of the Bonneville is coming along.

Rear passenger caliper was seized and the pad material was completely gone. That entire corner has been taken apart and rebuilt with a new hub assembly, rotor, pads, caliper, brake hose, control arm and swaybar end link. All that's left is to bleed the caliper.

On the driver's side rear, it's been disassembled but the brake line seized to the connector and when trying to brake the nut loose it tore the line off. I'm forging ahead, and the control arm, swaybar end link and hub are already on. Just have to put the rotor, pads, caliper, and hose on and then wait for a couple weeks for the new brake line to show up.

In the meantime I'll move onto the front and replace the rotors, pads, calipers, and hoses there. Hopefully without any more incidents.

The rotor, pads, caliper, and hose are installed on the driver's side rear. Unfortunately it looks like the parking brake cable for that side is seized up pretty good. No amount of wrestling with it will loosen it up.

I'll leave them both disconnected and just ask the shop to replace all the parking brake cables when I'm done with everything else. What a pain.

I'm going to toss the wheels on tomorrow, chock them so the car doesn't roll away, and get started on the front brakes while I wait for the brake line.

Wheels are on the non functional brakes on the back and the front end is now up in the air!

Front passenger side is disassembled down to the hub. We're having company this weekend so I doubt I'll get anything done until Sunday, but when the time comes I need to install the rotor, caliper, and pads with all the necessary lubricants and then break the brake hose free and replace it as well. Hopefully there aren't any issues and the line holds up.

Yesterday on the 1975 Monte Carlo I installed a new fan clutch and also a 160 degree thermostat.
The car normally runs at 200 but with the air on it runs at 220.
The fan clutch helped a little but the new thermostat really cut down the temperature.
The car is stored winters so i am not concerned about getting heat.
Down the road I am thinking about a new aluminum 4 row radiator.
I am sure that would really be a lot better than the one that is in there.

I clay barred and waxed the red Bonneville today.
I used a ceramic wax and it went on very easy.
Gave it 2 coats.
I have now used it on both cars and I really like the look and the finish.

Today, I want to wash and diagnose my car. As it's been a long time when I go for a long drive. So I decided to take leave from my office and spend a long weekend with my family. Hence it is very essential for me to first check the car that it is in a condition for a long drive or not. So to diagnose I use a multimeter that provides me the insights into my car battery and other electric issues in the vehicle. And the best part of it is very easy to use and quick to check. But to choose an affordable and best multimeter is a very big task and very time-consuming. But then I have visited https://handtoolsforfun.com/the-best-mu ... ive-review where I easily compared the best multimeter and the other features of it.

Wow, I haven't posted since early July...

I ordered 2005 Bonneville GXP front brake calipers and the bolt holes were different, so that was a no-go. Returned them and got Grand Prix GXP calipers that bolted right on. Then, of course I needed different brake hoses....aaanyway, the brakes are all upgraded along with the local shop taking care of some parking brake cable replacements, a new trans cooler line, a new boot for the driver's side of the steering rack and another couple things.

Recently (this week and last) I did an oil change, cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, replaced the MAP sensor, and put on new windshield wipers.

Ordered new transmission fluid lines, new pan gasket, power steering pressure hose, and some fluid! Car's been leaking pretty badly so gonna get that sorted soon.

New trans pan gasket, filter, lines, fluid, and accessory belt today.

New KYB shock is on the rear passenger side, along with a new sway bar bushing. I'll do the other side tomorrow and then we'll see if the new air lines work the way I have them connected or if I need to replace the T piece as well.

I also found one of the hoses on the Air Pump was cracked and broken. Not sure what that will affect, but I replaced it with a piece of hose I had lying around for now so we'll see if there's any difference.

Namrepus28 wrote:New KYB shock is on the rear passenger side, along with a new sway bar bushing. I'll do the other side tomorrow and then we'll see if the new air lines work the way I have them connected or if I need to replace the T piece as well.

I also found one of the hoses on the Air Pump was cracked and broken. Not sure what that will affect, but I replaced it with a piece of hose I had lying around for now so we'll see if there's any difference.

Driver's side was done today. Shock is in, new sway bar bushing, and I ended up replacing the T-fitting for the air lines and getting everything nice and snug.

I was treated to the sight of watching my car's rear end raise itself when the pump kicked on a few seconds after starting it. I guess I did something right.

Hopefully tomorrow I can start on some work at the front end.

Namrepus28 wrote:

Namrepus28 wrote:New KYB shock is on the rear passenger side, along with a new sway bar bushing. I'll do the other side tomorrow and then we'll see if the new air lines work the way I have them connected or if I need to replace the T piece as well.

I also found one of the hoses on the Air Pump was cracked and broken. Not sure what that will affect, but I replaced it with a piece of hose I had lying around for now so we'll see if there's any difference.

Driver's side was done today. Shock is in, new sway bar bushing, and I ended up replacing the T-fitting for the air lines and getting everything nice and snug.

I was treated to the sight of watching my car's rear end raise itself when the pump kicked on a few seconds after starting it. I guess I did something right.

Hopefully tomorrow I can start on some work at the front end.

Alright, probably my last post in this thread until I throw my winter wheels and tires on.

I spent several hours today changing out the front trans/motor mounts. Not the front Boat-Roller or the rear one that I had replaced two years ago, but the ones in the wheel wells.

Holy cow what an adventure. There are big brackets holding each one to the transmission and engine respectively. It's doable, but hilariously cramped. A 18mm straight wrench is your friend. Along with a 15mm and all sorts of extensions. But hey, I got it done!

I also replaced the front sway bar bushings which was a bit of a pain due to clearance, but I took my time and eventually got them on there.

Changed the 2/5 coil on my son's 2000SLE. (my old car)
Car was missing really bad and determined it was the coil causing the issue.
My son's friend has the high end Snap-0n analyzer which narrowed it down.
The coil I put on was an OEM coil from my stock.
Car is running great now. (car has 284K)

Swapped the winter wheels and tires on today. I miss my summers already. It looks so much worse with rusty steel wheels than the nice chrome 5 spokes. Ah well. Time to look for some hubcaps I guess.

Had a productive 2 days.
Helped my brother in law on his 2001SLE.(368,000 miles)
We changed the front struts,front wheel bearings,front brake pads and the driver side front axle.
Also did an oil and filter change.
Every is now tight and it rides great for a car with 368,000 miles.
Also I cannot believe how quite the motor is. (helps to change oil regularly)

On my son's 2000SLE (278,000 MILES) we replaced the passenger side lower control A Arm and the sway bar link.
Only took about an hour.
It was nice the new arm was preloaded with the ball joint and the bushings.
I have never replaced one before.
I think he hit a bad pothole.

I am so fortunate that he has 2 hoists now.
One is 4 post and the other is a 2 post.
The other weird thing is that I used to own both these cars.
They are still in pretty good shape considering the age and 20 Wisconsin winters.

This is Bonneville #2 for me, a 2001 SLE with 184,000 miles.

Paid $350 for it. The Previous owner decided to give it a tune up, hooked up the spark plug wires backwards.

When it wouldn't start, sprayed starting fluid into it and promptly blew up the UIM into pieces.

$36 for a UIM and fuel rail from the local pickit junkyard, and got it running.

Need to replace the windshield and fix a couple of other little issues and my wife has a new ride

She's named it the Silver Surfer.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hcma1hy7jzfak ... M.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rh5e2n14mcwim ... M.mov?dl=0

^^ That's awesome.

charged the battery

Replaced the passenger front module today. Took a gamble on a used eBay module and paid less than $10. It works!

Working window, mirror and locks!