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Nevermind took the old plugs out and turned theotor over again to ge coolant out.
Put new v-powers in. And *dang* this car fired up on the first crank!!
Finally it's driveable. Seems to run really good!!

All right!

I'd change the oil again soon to make sure all the coolant is truly out. And do a short change on the next change.

When should I change oil I was thinking like Tuesday. And then do it again in like 1,000 miles then go back to every 3,000?


Edit: also my car seems like it is chugging when in gear or in park doesn't matter.
The idle goes up and down a tad and chuging is all I can describe it as.
But it has good get up and go and drives good otherwise.

Did you change your O2 sensor like you were told? It's more sensitive to coolant than the plugs, and that could easily cause your chugging and hunting idle.

Let the car get up to normal operating temperature (driving, not idling), and dump the oil now. Let it drain FULLY. Then do it again in about 100 miles.

A bent rod will make it do this too.

Drive it around and see how it runs. Even if it does have a bent rod, I'd imagine if it's not too bent the car will still be okay to drive. But that's my poor grad-student self talking.

Did you install the PCV valve into the new intake? Make sure all the vacuum lines are connected.

94SilverSSEi wrote:Edit: also my car seems like it is chugging when in gear or in park doesn't matter.
The idle goes up and down a tad and chuging is all I can describe it as.
But it has good get up and go and drives good otherwise.

As mentioned above, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all the lines.

Easiest one to miss is the one at the rear of the intake, the one that goes to the climate control.

Ok first off oil: so I'll change it now then in 100 then it will be ok to go back to the regular 3k intervals?

O2 sensors: This is what I was thinking was making the chugging too. But again I was told By my mechanic friend that coolant won't hurt o2's.

Also it seems like my idle is a little lower than normal when in gear. Cuz usually it's around 750-1000 but now it chugs between 500-750. Could this mean bent rod or could an o2 do this.

Vaccum Leak: I checked all the lines and everything was hooked up as it was supposed to be.

Edit: also I have yet to flush the cooling system and put new coolant. Also I have not bled tu cooling system yet. Could this cause chugging?

94SilverSSEi wrote:Ok first off oil: so I'll change it now then in 100 then it will be ok to go back to the regular 3k intervals?

YES

O2 sensors: This is what I was thinking was making the chugging too. But again I was told By my mechanic friend that coolant won't hurt o2's.

Find another mechanic that isn't a friend. I've personally smoked my O2s after I had an intake let go on me.

Also it seems like my idle is a little lower than normal when in gear. Cuz usually it's around 750-1000 but now it chugs between 500-750. Could this mean bent rod or could an o2 do this.

An O2 that's bad can do this as previously mentioned.

Vaccum Leak: I checked all the lines and everything was hooked up as it was supposed to be.

Check for cracks...if the hose looks scaly, replace it. Another possible source of vac leak is the tree that goes into the back of the intake manifold. It's sealed with an O-ring and it rotates into place.

Edit: also I have yet to flush the cooling system and put new coolant. Also I have not bled tu cooling system yet. Could this cause chugging?

No. This won't cause chugging like you are describing. If it's chugging bad, you should set off a CEL.

Normal warm engine idle RPM with the car in gear is about 650-690 RPM. With the car out of gear it's about 800 RPM, IIRC.

If you have a blowtorch you can always try to clean the O2 sensor, as others have suggested in this thread. Otherwise a Denso is about $40.

Search on how to test for vacuum leaks, and follow the instructions. It'll rule out if you have a vac leak or not.

Change only the front O2 for now. Only change the rear if you throw a code for it.

Re-check all those vacuum lines. There are many, and some are easy to miss.

Does anybody know where to get cheap o2's as the ones from autozone are like $69 for front and $93 for back. The boschs are cheaper but aren't they crappy?

Also I do have the engine light on. I will have to get it scanned.

Found the same denso o2's at advance for $60 each.

Also would the o2's off a 94 ssei be the same as 97 SE?

Read my reply above. IGNORE THE REAR O2 unless you throw a code for it.

Check the part numbers online to determine compatibility between 94/97 but the 94 won't have a rear sensor (which you should ignore for now).

Get the code pulled before spending any money on anything.

If you have a way to monitor open and closed loop status of the PCM (like a scan gauge or similar scan tool), then see if the chugging is present in open loop. If it is, then the problem is not the O2 sensors. The PCM ignores O2 sensor inputs when it is in open loop mode. It instead relies on inputs from the TP, ECT, and MAF sensors for fuel delivery. The O2 sensors only come into play when the PCM enters closed loop mode. The conditions for closed loop opperation vary greatly from one vehicle to the next and from environmental conditions, like elevation, barometric pressure, and outside air temperature. So a scan tool is the only way you will be able to monitor the loop status. HOWEVER, it would be a pretty safe bet to say that the first minute of run time on a cold (below 60*F) engine will be in open loop mode.

The connectors are different between the two models. You will have the square connector, the older sensor will be a flat-style. For the time being, just swipe one from a junkyard if you are strapped for cash.

Fatcat reminded me of something. Quite often after severe UIM failure, the MAF sensor can get really nasty. Especially when it's exposed to all the maintenance activities. Gently clean the filaments with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol or electrical contact cleaner.

But whatever code exists is the most important thing to go after.

Could also just swap sensor 1 and 2 around. But if both are bad, that will only confuse a guy more. A scan tool would be very helpfull here. Can you borrow one from somebody?

willwren wrote:Fatcat reminded me of something. Quite often after severe UIM failure, the MAF sensor can get really nasty. Especially when it's exposed to all the maintenance activities. Gently clean the filaments with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol or electrical contact cleaner.

Willwren reminded me of something. I agree, try cleaning the MAF.