This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)
00Beast wrote:I totally see why GM went with the dock and lock wiring 00+, and used the metal clips to hold the HU in. Removing my HU is a 5 minute task that involves a pen and a flat blade screwdriver.
Ed, I can get the HU out of both of my Bonnevilles in less than 2 minutes.
Human, look at the treble/bass sliders in the photos. You'll see he's just replacing a cosmetic part. And it's not rocket science, this is a very simple repair that should take no more than 15 minutes from removal, through the repair, and back to install.
No, Bill, I agree that it's not terribly hard, but for installation on the line all the guy had to do was pop it in and go, and all the dealer has to do is pop it in and out, vs having to take the extra few seconds to connect cables. It's all about efficiency.
Also, Human, he just has to remove the face to pop the sider cap on from behind and re-install. It's designed so it shouldn't come out, but somehow has.
Bye Bye: RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
I think that my schedule and the icy weather are making this appear to take much longer than it would otherwise. Now that I know how to remove the radio and understand how the wires are connected it should be an easy job. Since the luxury of time is on my side I prefer not to yank wires when it makes more sense to ask than to risk damaging the, cables or connectors. I think the total time from start to finish when learned is 5 minutes or less. remove the bezel, detach radio, disconnect cables, detach faceplate, slide cap on (yeah beast! How DID that come off anyway? it looks impossible unless someone really yanked on it?) and put it all back together. Also a good education because once I know the radio and inner lamp are working I will be adding an MP3 input jack and I know that will require all of these same steps.
'97 SSEi, Majestic Teal / Beige interior, Bose, HUD, iPod ready! - SOLD! Check it out! '99 Buick Regal LSE, Matador Red / Beige interior - SOLD!Check it out! '96 Chevy Camaro - White w/Black / fire red interior, 3800, manual, loaded, T-tops, Bose - SOLD!Check it out!
Hey all, I'm back on this one, but now with a new twist (or two). What I determined was that turning the radio upside down (when half removed) allowed much better leverage for removing the cables. I was still very patient as I'm trying not to over-force anything so it took much longer than it will next time. I can see that next time I remove the radio it will take 2 minutes. Like so many thing, easy once you know how! (and have a feel for it). My focus however was adding an FM modulator so I can listen to my iPod while driving. Bad news though. While I was able to get everything back together and smush it back into the dashboard, it turns out the theftlock had been enabled and (sigh - you guessed it) now I have no radio or clock whatsoever. I've found a source of a solution that involves pressing buttons in specific sequences and times which generate codes and calling an 800#. Mr. Badwrench wants $110 (!!) to disable the theftlock so I really hope this works. It is somewhat appalling that a process like this which is probably a 5 minute thing once you know how is something they would rake me over the coals for.
Because I was on limited time and wasn't focused on replacing the bass slider cap or fixing the lamp I tried briefly to remove the faceplate but still, that thing wasn't as easily removed even out of the dash as I'd hoped. I noted that while all of the face buttons seemed able to stay in the radio with the faceplate removed it appears that the power/volume control must come off first. I didn't want to yank on it without knowing first if that just pulls off or not. So two questions for the patient panel of experts.
1. Any (simple?) suggestions on disabling an activated theftlock on the 97 bonne stereo? (am/fm/cd/bose) sans code.
2. If I yank hard on the power/volume knob will it "A" pop off or "B" break something?
Thanks in advance.
PS: I took some photos showing some tricks I used and intend to post them soon to make this easier for other dashboard/stereo unit replacement noobs like myself.
'97 SSEi, Majestic Teal / Beige interior, Bose, HUD, iPod ready! - SOLD! Check it out! '99 Buick Regal LSE, Matador Red / Beige interior - SOLD!Check it out! '96 Chevy Camaro - White w/Black / fire red interior, 3800, manual, loaded, T-tops, Bose - SOLD!Check it out!
Just an FYI, I googled (something like) reset a GM theftlock radio, perhaps disable theftlock. The solution I found including pressing some odd combinations of buttons on the facia to retrieve codes from the stereo system, calling an 800 line and entering those codes in the radio. Good news, it worked! Then bad news, apparently there is a disconnect in the antennae so the only thing I can receive for now is static (ugh!) time to remove the radio again and make sure all the connections are solid AND that they don't get damaged when relpacing the unit. My concern is that it took some pressure to get the radio back in the dash and I don't know which cables are under pressure. I guess another removal and replacement (sigh). Gotta love learning the hard way. Anyway, at least the tips online (apparently) got the radio working again (I can only hope). I'll report in when I'm 100% sure. At least now removing the radio is becoming all too familiar. I'll time myself.
'97 SSEi, Majestic Teal / Beige interior, Bose, HUD, iPod ready! - SOLD! Check it out! '99 Buick Regal LSE, Matador Red / Beige interior - SOLD!Check it out! '96 Chevy Camaro - White w/Black / fire red interior, 3800, manual, loaded, T-tops, Bose - SOLD!Check it out!
