My Car Won't Start! (maybe ignition problem)

[BennitoCruz]

Yeah I know, it sounds stupid, but it's true

The battery is fine, th starter is fine and the alternator is fine. The problem is with the key cylinder i think. Recently my wife has had to rotate the key all the way back and then to the ignition position to get the car started, and yesterday, it stopped responding all together. Is there any remedy for this?

[bill buttermore]

Sounds like you need to tighten (could be loose from the description) or replace the ignition switch. However, because it is a good bit of work to change one out, you will want to do some electrical tests to make sure that the diagnosis is correct. Those tests should also include one to eliminate the vehicle anti-theft system (vats) as a possibility.

[BennitoCruz]

How would I go about testing that?

[bill buttermore]

How would I go about testing that?

Make a 12V test light using a brake light bulb and some wire. You want a test light that draws a reasonable amount of current to test the current carrying capacity of the circuit. Connect one wire from the test light to the small wire connection at the starter and the other to a good ground on the engine. If the test light lights every time the key is turned to the start position, the ignition switch connection to the starter is OK. If that checks out OK, then you need to do a load test on the battery to see if it is OK. Auto parts stores will do this for free. If the battery is OK and the switch is OK, then you need a new solenoid or starter or your starter ground is bad.

[BennitoCruz]

I've got a voltmeter that i can use. Will that work?

[bill buttermore]

I've got a voltmeter that i can use. Will that work?

A voltmeter will tell you if you have a broken wire or no current flowing, but it will not tell you if you have a worn or poor contact. In that case, it may read 12V when there is not enough current available to move the solenoid. That's why I like to use a test light.

[bill buttermore]

Here is a picture of one of my test lights. You need a length of lamp cord (16-18 gauge wire), a plastic lid from a spray paint can, a stop light bulb, and (optional) soldering stuff.

Drill a hole in the lid and run the wires through it. If you use one of the newer push-in bulbs, you can just bend the wires out from the base and twist one conductor from the lamp cord onto each. Pull the bulb against the cap without letting the wires touch and tie an overhand knot in the cord to act as a strain relief. Strip the ends of the wires and you are good to go. I solder the connections and tin the ends of the wires, then flatten them out and file them, so they will fit into electrical connectors, but just the bare wire will work fine too. The plastic cap protects the bulb, and if you use a translucent cap, makes the light easier to see. If you use long wires, you can run the lamp up to where you can see it eliminating the need for a helper.

[BennitoCruz]

I've eliminated the starter/ battery/ and other parts of the ignition system. How do I replace the igntion switch/ column? Will this screw up my VATS?

[bill buttermore]

If you are sure it is the ignition switch (you have checked the ignition fuse...) I suggest you invest 23 bucks in a Chilton's 28200 that will give you the step by step instructions so you don't hurt yourself or the car. You will first need to disable the airbag system. Then, drop the steering column by undoing the trim and the bolts that hold it up to the bottom of the dash. The switch is up where you cannot get to it without dropping the column. Turning the ignition key moves a rod that runs down to the switch. Put the switch in the off-unlock position, unscrew the mounting screws and remove the switch. Put the new switch in the off-unlock position, insert the actuating rod, and install the new switch. Test its function before putting the column back up.

This should not affect the VATS. If you have to remove the lock cylinder, you will encounter the little wires for the VATS. As long as you don't mess them up, you should be OK.

[BennitoCruz]

Thanks a lot for the help!

I got the steering column down, the switch from the column off, and everything that is attached to it. Except I can't seem to figure out how to get the ignition switch harness from under the dash without being double jointed ( as far as I can tell). Any tips on how to unplug the son of gun?

p.s. Mods
I know that I wrote the first post over a month ago, so tell me if I should start a new thread.

[bill buttermore]

I don't remember having any particular problem with the harness with the last one I did. But, I can't remember exactly how it connected. As I recall, the connector comes off the base of the column to make it a little easier, but you may be stuck with the upside down and backwards position to get r' done.