Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
The Grizz melted the plastic loom covering the wires to the EGR valve.
The melted black plastic dripped down onto the exhaust crossover pipe and started to smoke.
That's too hot!!!
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
since it was the EGR, I'm guessing exhaust temps....which would signal that its running extremely lean. if so...you might want to check the fuel pressure.
John Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
Yes you are correct. I had the exact same problem and the fan override is what fixed it. I have mine wired directly instead of with a switch which I may do sometime down the road, but for now it always runs at 180 in the summer and winter. I just used a splice that you wrap around the two wires and just squeeze closed and your done. I ran it to the strut bar bolt with a ring terminal. I did this all about a year and a half ago.
2003 SLE 145K PLIM, Tune, FWI, 180stat, Magnaflow cat and mufflers
1968 Galaxie Country Sedan Wagon 390/C6/2.75
I couldn't wait a week so did the high speed fan over ride switch.
Wow that was much simpler than on my car.
The Grizz now has two mods. 180 drilled stat and now this.
Thanks for the explicit instructions Bill.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
I suspect it is a dirty rad
The outside of it is fouled with oil that had leaked from a loose trani cooler fitting. I cleaned up as much as I could off the A/C condenser fins but don't know how bad it is inside.
I will check fuel trims if the scanner that John lent us will do that. Will it read similar units to mine like negative, zero and positive percentages?
So if it's running lean, the LTFT should show positive numbers.
I know my 00 is running rich because the LTFT is -10 and the wideband O2 reads 10:1 at WOT.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
Paul,I have had the same heat issues with my 93,today I put a 180 drilled thermostat along with a new temp sending sensor.My car now runs 195 even in the city,I sat at the bowling alley waiting for my daughter for 20 minutes and it never got over 200 degrees.Just a thought,not sure if you changed the sending unit on that car,yours may have different issues,but it sure sounded alot like mine. Tim
2000Silverbullet wrote:I suspect it is a dirty rad
The outside of it is fouled with oil that had leaked from a loose trani cooler fitting. I cleaned up as much as I could off the A/C condenser fins but don't know how bad it is inside.
you have mentioned that radiator from day one, iirc, before the engine was out of the car. Can you find a decent used one, if new is too expensive?