computer at auto zone has 3 codes from the original 6

[Mikeblo22]

good morning club members,

I had 6 codes and then I did some work and did a tuneup 0r a partial one with the money that I had and it seemed to relieve me of 3 codes, but 3 still exist they are all emission problems and my inspection is due.


first code PO171 - explaination - the powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to caculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine the computer has recogniaed a rich condition on one engine bank only.
probable cause if bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure on MAF sensor.
aa2 - oxygen sensor.
aa3 - ignition misfire.
aa4 - fuel injector problem.

code 2 -PO300 - cylinder misfire detected random cylinders.
explanation.
aa - the power train control module monitors the crankscaft speed and has detected a misfire condition
probable cause -
aa1 - ignition system fault - spark plugs, wires, coil.
aa2 - vacuum leak.
qaa3 - injector fault.
aa4 - high or low fuel pressure.

code 3 - PO336 crankshaft position sensor (this slip got wet so there are some words that I couldnt make out).
aa - crankshaft position sensor has been monitored for errors.
aa1 crank shaft position sensor defective.
aa2 - check connector wiring to sensor.
aa3 - check trigger wheel for damage.

Ok so there you have it. I have done the plugs and the wires so I am going to change the coil. I am also going to change the MAF.
next week I am going to change the oxygen sensor before the catalytic convertor. and hope that I don't have to change the crankshaft position sensor because it is a ball buster to change. anyone with any feedback. I could really use it because I am in a financial bind and don't want to spend money that I don't have. so fellow club members any help would be so appreciated. Mike Bailo TY in advance.
btw - what is a Bank and what do they mean when they refer to it. is it a single cylinder?

[vogie01]

Try the unplugging the MAF first, and check for any vacuum leaks and see how it runs. I doubt that your O2 sensor is bad, so don't spend the money on it yet.

[myfirstbonnie]

First of all, I take it this is for the 97 in your sig. It should be in the 1992 - 1999 instead of here.

Mods, can you move please.


Next, there is a list of codes in techinfo that give a breif description of the codes also. http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =51&t=8893

What brand of plugs did you put in? Do not change the coils without checking them out according to the write up in tech info. http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =48&t=1683 Has the UIM been changed? LIM gaskets?

[Mikeblo22]

I am going to the junkyard and getting a maf. I don't know how to check for vacuum leaks but I will look over the whole engine for any loose or hoses that are open. as far as the spark plugs i put in autolite platinums. the cheap ones for 2.99. now i have to put a corresponding coil on. do i have that right. Thanks Mike. Sorry about it being in the wrong spot (the post).

[myfirstbonnie]

Several things here.

Don't replace the MAF until you clean yours first (use MAF cleaner only) and then check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner on all the vacuum hoses and fitting and listening for the idle to change. Also spray around the UIM and LIM gaskets.

The platinum plugs are not recommended for these motors that are using the waste spark ignition. Use either copper core or iridiums.

Check the coils as described in the techinfo.

Reset the codes and drive it a little while and have them read again to see what returns.

[Mikeblo22]

I just read the tech info regarding the coil. I am baffled at how little I know. U mean to tell me that I have to know this to change the coil on my car. And I just cant follow the chiltons service manual in installing the coil. I understood one thing that getting a good coil is important. So I should spend the extra money for a good coil. But as far as the ohms go, I wouldn't know where to begin in getting readings. And if I properly change the coil can i screw it up. Mike. by the way, I am capable, just not a mechanic. Thanks for all your help. really.

ps - I can see how to do the primary winding on the coil but with the 3 coils that make up the set how do i do the secondary where do I put the negative wire from the ohm reader. I am assuming with the primary I follow the codes in the tech page and put the two wires from the ohm reader on the two studs for the wires. but for the secondary there doesnt seem to be a place for another way to go. maybe Im not making sense for this I apologize. But I will not change the MAF until I have cleaned it and checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. if the idle changes drastically there may be a vacuum leak. If not it may be the MAF. If anyone gets a second could you please tell me how to perform the secondary winding for the coil. Thank you. Mike.

[myfirstbonnie]

Your car should have 3 seperate coils as shown in the techinfo. Does yours look like those?

Why are you wanting to change a coil? Each coil fires 2 cylinders. If you have a code P0300, that means a random misfire. It is not one cylinder or another. There are several things that can lead to a misfire.

Have you done anything I suggested yet like clean the MAF or look for vacuum leaks, cleared the codes and then see what returns?

[Mikeblo22]

hello my friends at the Bonneville club,
I went today to the inspection station in NJ. I knew I was going to fail. I waited idling for an hour, and by the time I got inside
i was confident that my car was going to stall and give me problems. I don't know why because the car had been behaving so well in the last 2 weeks. But as luck would have it, the car stalled and would not start. they had to push it out of the station and left me on the side of the road. it was cranking over had good sound but it wouldn't turn over. I waited and eventually pulled out my jump starting paraphenalia, hoping someone would see it and pull over, i also went to where everyone waits for their car and made a general request. I figured even though it wasn't an ignition problem if I overloaded the voltage and gave it 3 full gas pumps maybe something would happen. in sequence I did what I thought would give me my best chance to start the car and it worked. The car was popping and misfiring and trying to get rid of the excess gas, but it worked, and i got my 2nd rejection and still am no closer to solving my problem than I was before I went to the DMV. Is it the crankshaft position sensor, or is it the bank one cylinder, coil pak? or was it the MAF or the O2 sensor. WHAT THE F____ IS WRONG WITH MY CAR. I already spent over a thousand dollars on a 1000.00 car, but I love bonnies. The cost however has my friends calling me a moron. believe me I have heard it all; "spending all your savings on that piece of *shoot*"... or ...."by the time that thing is working right you will be an old man"! my first car was like a pontiac it was a 69 pontiac, and I forget alot about it except it was black and it had white interior, and the seats were so big. hahha. well Ill get through this and if you guys have any advice help me out I read every post. MIKE peace.

[Mikeblo22]

no one has any advice for me. other than change the plugs clean the MAF and use carb cleaner to check for leaks.
well I did not change the plugs but did everything else.
symptoms: after idling or starting and shutting off and starting right away, car will not start up, and when it does it (the motor) gives a popping noise as it builds rpms.
it doesn't seem to have the pickup that it used to have.
and when going up hills I have a little trouble with hesitations.
im afraid to shut it off once it has started and in the morning it always starts.

Please help. I will do anything
codes
p300
p336
po171
Thank You Mike.

[myfirstbonnie]

Have you done anything that has been suggested like unplugging the MAF and see how it runs, checked for vacuum leaks, etc?

[00Beast]

We are trying to help you work on a car we've never seen from 1,000 miles away. All we know is what you've told us, it's your job to go do what we suggest and see if it works. It sounds as if you have been throwing money at the car and not actually following troubleshooting steps.

You said you haven't changed the plugs? Do that NOW. I'd bet a LOT of your issues will disappear.

How's your coolant level? Is there any gunk in the reservoir?

Here's my maintenance list. Go through it and figure out what you have and haven't done, and do it.

• 1987-2005 Bonneville / Buick 3800 Maintenance List
  
  Run Seafoam, Chevron Techron or Gumout Regane through gasoline every 5,000 miles.
  
  Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease or Amsoil Grease recommended)
  Air Filter Every 15k (Amsoil EaA, Purolator PureONE)
  PCV Valve Every 30k
  MAF Sensor Element Cleaning/TB Cleaning Every 50k viewtopic.php?f=48&t=1661
  Fuel Filter Every 15-25k (Purolator, AC Delco, WIX) http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=23215
  Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55, AC Delco 41-101 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)
  Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)
  Oil & Filter Every 5-6k or Every 6 months (Valvoline SYNPower, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil )(Mobil1, Purolator PureONE, Amsoil EaO, K&N or WIX) (Never Fram) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=214
  *Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(API SM/SN rating) (WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter)
  Tires: Check Inflation Pressure & Visually Inspect Monthly Rotate Every 6-8,000 Miles
  Transmission Flush or Pan Drop Every 15-20k (Always make sure filter is changed when flushed) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=10193
  Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Mixes-With-Any Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool)
  Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794
  Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed
  Cabin Air Filter Inspect and Replace every 15k, or as needed in dusty conditions. (Note: 00+ Only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=13626
  Evap Core Cleaning Whenever Needed (Note: 99 and older only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2432
  Brake Fluid Flush 3yr/50k
  Power Steering Fluid Replacement/Flush Every 100k or 5 years
  
  *Special Considerations*
  All Series II/III 3800's RPO's: L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
  Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)
  
  Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
  Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061
  
  Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
  Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
  Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.

7/7/2011 by 00Beast

[Mikeblo22]

wow if you read my posts you would have read that not only did I change the plugs but the wires too, and still the problem persists. I am not asking anyone to fix the car and I did the plugs and wires myself, today I am checking the resistance on the coil pak before I spend any money on that. I thought this was a site where if you had problems people got together and helped each other. I didn't know that it was a site where a moderator who is having a bad day takes it out on me. I didn't take the MAF off but I used carb cleaner to check for any vacuum leaks there weren't any. When I spent all of my money on problems that seemed to be fixed only to re-appear a month later, I had no choice but to work on it myself. I ordered both the chilton and haynes service manuals but they haven't arrived and it's been two weeks. it's easy to make someone feel like a beggar maybe next time your answering someones post you may want to keep that in mind. because right now I feel like I have somehow encroached on this site, yet, everything I've read was so welcoming. And I don't know alot about cars, my bad luck, but I am willing to try. I haven't received much advice except for a few of the same peeps.. anyway, I just bought the car a few months ago and then it got broken into and the person or people who did it ruined the steering column and all of the wires. 400.00 I don't know anything about wiring and thought it was pretty reasonable. but to put the new key in they had to clear the computer (there in lies the problem). all I could do was explain to them what was happening in regard to hesitation bucking and hard starts. they found fuel filter bad and fuel distributer bad, car ran like a top for a month and those problems came back. I have been busting my back ever since. also after spark plugs and wires car ran like a top. then I was told that the spark plugs I put in were titanium and no good for that car so I have to find copper or iridium plugs at 60.00 bucks a set. not complaining I just didn't know that titanium was not good for that car. but hey you guys some of you - most of you - practically all of you gave it a shot. I'll figure it out. one way or another. thanks for all the help you guys have given me. mike truly greatful.

[Mikeblo22]

I just wrote a reply but lost it somewhere in internet land. I took the MAF sensor off while the car was running and it started to run poorly very rough idle. i kept it off for over a minute and it ran shoddy until i put it back on and the car went back to about 850 rpm. also I haave a ohm meter but it has one level and that is 1k will it be impossible to get a reading as the ohm for the car is 5.09. I tried and the needle didn't move. should I buy one from walmart. thank you and I hope I can be forgivin for my previous post.

[renchjeep]

Stick with 00Beast's list. Random misfires and lean codes make me think fuel supply. Clogged fuel filter, faulty fuel pump, etc. With the crankshaft position sensor code, maybe that is bad? Maybe not, as that code also could be caused by the sensor getting a bad reading caused by the random misfires. If you haven't already done so, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Not only at idle, but also when driving, under load. A bad oxygen sensor or 2 can also cause all these symptoms. Without any of us actually being there, it's VERY difficult to diagnose.

For example, when you replaced the plugs and wires, did you connect the wires from the correct coil towers to the correct spark plugs? There is a pic of how it should go here somewhere, just search "plug wire routing".

If you have not replaced ALL oxygen sensors, you may need to do that as well. Especially if you are over 75k. Use the recommended sensors, AC Delco preferred, ND second. No Bosch, IIRC.

Above all, try to stay "cool", and remember that we are ALL doing our best to help. Long-distance diagnosis is not easy, and often impossible.