Everything you want to know about upgrading your headlights

[LeSabreUltra]

Seems like we get a lot of the same questions that I would like to cover here...as well as some we don't that probably could stand covering here anyway. I've added to this every now and then for a couple of weeks and I think it's pretty much there.

I've been interested in automotive lighting for years and have been 'studying' it off and on. I've pretty much had everything from basic stockers to overwattage halogen bulbs, silverstars, plug and play HID kits, to a full blown HID projector retrofit. There isn't much I haven't seen or tried before so I hope you'll save yourself some time and money while upgrading your lights instead of trying everything in sight to learn what works best/most cost effectively like I did.

Here's what will be covered, in order:

I FAQs about general light upgrades, aftermarket headlights, replacement halogens (those that work and those that don’t) etc…basic upgrades that don’t involve many changes

II HID Lighting
1. Plug and play kits (should you do it), brands that work, color temperatures
2. D2S projector retrofits, where to source parts, how-tos and references
3. Common problems with HIDs, some diagnostics and solutions
4. HID FAQs

III HIR Lighting

GENERAL LIGHTING FAQs

Q: Are there different style aftermarket headlights available for my (Bonneville, LeSabre, 88/98, Park Avenue)?
A: No there are not. The only way you will be able to get custom headlights is if you make them yourself.

Q: Are Silverstar Ultras any good? What about PIAA? Or those blue bulbs I see on ebay?
A: All are junk. Don’t buy any bulb that bases it’s claims on having brighter “whiter” light. Most of these bulbs rely on lumen stealing blue tint to achieve the white coloring and are using an overdriven filament that will blow more often than a regular bulb. The end result is that you are overpaying for a bulb that puts out LESS measured light than a $3 standard bulb you could buy at Wal-Mart. Don’t be pulled into the trap of overpriced junk. If you want to know the science behind why these don't work, read here:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... white.html
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... /good.html
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... d/bad.html
The short version is, if the bulbs look blue in the package, DON'T buy them. They are useless junk.

Q: So what bulbs do work then?
A: Any halogen bulb from a reputable brand name (GE, Sylvania, Phillips) that offers increased output and does not have a blue tint to the bulb is likely to be good. If I were to recommend one halogen bulb for those of you looking to upgrade your lights without going to HID or HIR, it would be this one:
http://www.bulbs.com/eSpec.aspx?ID=1482 ... 4294966750
(Phillips X-Treme Power 9006 +80 in case the link dies)
Notice how these bulbs cost exactly the same as those Silverstars you were thinking about buying, and a lot less than those PIAAs. These will outlast both bulbs and provide much more measurable light output.

Q: What about swapping a 9005 high beam bulb into my 9006 low beam spot?
A: This is likely to have mixed responses. I personally do not recommend it. Your low beam housing was designed for a 9006 bulb, not a 9005. Swapping them out WILL negatively impact your beam pattern and cause glare to other drivers. You can achieve 9005 levels of light output through other completely safe ways (HIR or the bulbs I listed above).

Q: Other than changing bulbs, is there another way I can make my lights brighter?
A: Yes. You can relay your low and high beams. To find a relay harness, simply type in 9006 or 9005 relay into ebay or your preferred online store. Don't worry if it says Xenon or HID harness in the title. They will work fine for halogens too. Please note this is only true in the case of 9006 and 9005 bulbs.
Also note: it is not recommended that you relay your high beams unless you have disabled your DRL's. Please search the forum for instructions on how to do so.
Installation is simple and many will come with a installation guide. The harness has one female 9006/9005 connector, and two 9006/9005 male connectors. The harness will have one power wire and one or possibly two ground wires. Simply connect the female connector to one (usually the one closest to the positive battery terminal or accessory post) of the stock male connectors that connects to the headlight bulb on your car. Then, ground one or both of the wires to a factory ground or make your own (I don't recommend doing this if you don't know what a ground is or how to make one). Then connect the two male ends of the new harness to your light bulbs on either side of the car. Finally, attach the red power wire of the new harness to the positive terminal of your battery or your underhood accessory post (in the case of the 2000+) and you are done.
This works because your stock wiring is very thin and long and will choke the electrical current before it reaches your lightbulbs meaning they will operate at reduced power. Providing them with a harness uses your stock wiring as a signal and then the relay will allow direct power to travel from the battery to your lightbulbs giving you more light output, on the order of up to 35% more. It is recommended that you use a relay harness anytime you upgrade your lights. In other words, this should be the FIRST thing you do. If you don't, you risk premature wear and failures on the electrical components of your car, and in some extreme cases, fire. Take the time to buy a $10 relay and save yourself the hassle.

Q: How do I aim my headlights?
A: For DOT lamps, aiming is more of a general thing than an exact science. Aim them so that each beam is horizontally level with the other, so that the focal point (bright spot in the middle) of each beam is straight forward from the lamp, and so that they are aimed just a little bit down from horizontal.

HID LIGHTING

Plug and play kits

Let's start with HID lighting, specifically plug and play kits. These kits have been flooding the market lately and are currently cheaper than ever before. They are available in just about every style bulb including the 9006 bulbs we all run in our H-body's low beams.

Some cars, in particular newer cars with H4 (9003) bulbs and more precise optics, actually respond very well to HID kits. Unfortunately, no H-body fits into this category. Thus:

As a disclaimer, I do NOT recommend HID kits in any H-body factory housing. DOT (Department of Transportation, US-spec) housings are marginal at best for distributing light, and matters are made only worse with an HID kit.

By regulation, DOT housings are required to project a certain amount of light upward to illuminate overhead road signs. Stock halogens are very dim so automakers had to make up for it by designing the housing to reflect a fair portion of the low beam light upward. This results in a fuzzy cutoff and GLARE. You may be rolling your eyes at that often used word, but having been on both sides of the bright blue bulb I can say it DOES exist. HID kits in any H-body will result in nothing better than an incoherent blob of light on the road and a significant portion of it will be shining into the eyes of other drivers.

Also, because the focal point differences of the 9006 HID bulb and your stock 9006 halogen bulb, your lighting will be even more poorly controlled than it was from the factory. You will get hotspots and dim areas in your beam pattern, and generally you will find that the area your headlights illuminate is narrower than before. You'll still be able to see fairly well because of the glare scattering all over the place but it doesn't look cool or high end...it looks cheap and sloppy and you're not likely to impress anyone or see nearly as well as you think you can.

Remember, I've been there...on more than one car. The results aren't worth it in the end. It looks sloppy, adds complications and potential problems, and DOES negatively impact other drivers. Thus I do not recommend it. Save your money and buy HIRs or do a proper retrofit instead.

Here is more information on why HID kits are a bad idea:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... sions.html

IF you choose to try a kit anyway, or if you need inexpensive components for a legitimate retrofit, I recommend this source:

http://www.vvme.com
Very fast shipping. Spotty quality but *MOST* issues seem to work their way out within a week or so.

I recommend digital (small kind) over analog (big kind) unless you are using OE quality analog ballasts.

In the case of aftermarket kits, don't worry about buying a kit that isn't Chinese. They are all Chinese. No US manufacturer has made aftermarket kit ballasts or bulbs in years due to legal pressure and most other countries won't touch that market either.

HID Retrofits

HID retrofits involve gutting your stock headlights and replacing the innards with HID D2S projectors providing you with unparalleled beam pattern and light output. They are time consuming and expensive but the results are well worth it.

HID retrofits are a very complex and customized process. There is no how-to, and there really can't be.

If you want help on how to retrofit your lights, visit this forum and register:

http://www.hidplanet.com

You will find many people who have done this before and can give you a hand in how to do it. You can also find other examples and tech info for how to mount your projectors as well as parts and components you can use to make your retrofit better.

To source your retrofit parts, I recommend this site:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com

These people are extremely helpful, have almost everything you will need, and will give you discounts if you contact them personally via email to buy your stuff. BUY YOUR PROJECTORS FROM THEM. You will never be stuck with a damaged projector as you may be if you source your parts through ebay.

With retrofits, remember, measurement is CRITICAL. For more help please visit hidplanet.com.

Here is my thread from this forum about my retrofit. I have a few pics of the process that may help you.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 14&t=16586

HID problems, diagnostics, and solutions

If you are having problems with your HIDs, here are a few common problems with diagnostics and solutions.

Before you do anything else, make sure your HIDs are powered by a relay. No matter what anyone says, they should never be run off the stock wiring. If they are you are asking for problems. Relay them and see if it fixes your problem. If not, then:

One bulb flickers or won't turn on when I turn on the lights. (sometimes the bulb will come on if the lights are turned off then back on again) (also the bulb may flicker or turn off after running for a while)

Swap your HID ballasts from one side to the other. See if the problem changes sides. If it does, your ballast is to blame. Buy a new ballast. If it does not, the problem lies with either the wiring or the bulbs. Double check your connections. If you find no fault, your bulb is to blame. Replace bulb.

My lights flicker when I hit bumps.

Are the bumps fairly rough? If they are, this is common with inexpensive ballasts and generally cannot be avoided. Buy the more expensive digital ballasts from theretrofitsource.com if it really bothers you.
If they flicker over small imperfections, or just constantly flicker, you have poor quality or failing ballasts or bulbs. If it is localized to one side, follow the procedure above to diagnose. If it is both sides, recheck your electrical connections.

I connected my HIDs right according to the instructions, but they won't turn on.

If you haven't already, relay them. First step. If you have, then please take note of the 9006 connector that leads into both of the HID ballasts. Flip this connector around 180 degrees and reconnect. See if it solves your problem. If it doesn't, recheck your other electrical connections.

I have radio interference when my HIDs are on.

You have poor quality or failing ballasts. Replace ballasts. Sometimes minor interference can be alleviated by wrapping the ballasts in aluminum foil.

My ballasts hum or make noise when they are on.

As long as you're still getting light, this is normal. If not connected to a bulb when powered on, ballasts will sometimes "shriek" loudly.

My lights seem to get dimmer when they are turned on and then brighter again.

This is normal, and how HID bulbs warm up.

HID FAQs

Only a few things need to go here. Common questions related to HIDs.

Q: What is color temperature? What color temperature is the best?
A: Here's a handy color temperature guide.



Take note of the lumen ratings for each.

A very popular choice seems to be 6000k or 8000k. Some choose to go even higher.
If you want optimal visibility, stay as close to 4300k as you can. Higher color temperatures look (in my opinion) silly and WILL reduce your visibility. Be forewarned that with any HID lighting source, be it a retrofit or a kit, your vision is DRASTICALLY reduced in inclement weather, more so than halogens. This is due to the color of the bulbs and the scattering of light as a result. The higher in color temperature you go, the worse your vision will be. Thus, I recommend 4300k or 5000k if you must have a little more blue.

Q: Is there anything else I should know about HID kits?
A: Be warned that HID kit bulbs tend to color shift and lose light output faster than OE quality HID bulbs. They may last longer than halogens (or may not, depending on quality) but they will never last as long as a quality HID bulb. Color shifting is the process in which an HID bulb ages and turns a bluer color, losing lumens as well. Be aware of this when you are selecting your HID color temperature, they will slide higher up the scale rather quickly.

Q: Should I get 55 watt or 35 watt HIDs?
A: If it's a kit, skip the 55 watt. You'll be blinding enough already. Additionally 55 watt kits tend to be destructive to the housings they are in. If you have a retrofit, find yourself quality ballasts and bulbs from theretrofitsource.com and have at it. Make sure your projectors can take the extra heat. Some projectors will lose their chrome with 55 watt HIDs. If you have doubts, contact someone at theretrofitsource and they will be happy to help. All 55 watt HIDs use the same bulbs as the 35 watt variety, and thus the bulb will wear out faster.

HIR LIGHTING

What is HIR?

HIR is a rather new breakthrough technology in halogen bulbs that allows twice the light output from the same voltage as their ordinary halogen counterparts. These lights use a special infrared coating on the bulb surface that reflects energy back to the filament causing it to burn more brightly.

For your car, use 9011 to replace your 9005, and 9012 to replace your 9006. These bulbs will function perfectly with your stock optics and not adversely affect your beam pattern.

For more information, including how to install them (they require a small amount of trimming), the science behind them, and to buy these bulbs, visit http://www.hirheadlights.com.

I believe pretty much everything has been covered here, if anyone thinks of anything else feel free to add it. Hopefully this saves someone time and money in their upgrades. If there are any other questions, ask...
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[harofreak00]

Nice writeup, definately possible sticky here.

Q: Are there aftermarket headlights available for my (Bonneville, LeSabre, 88/98, Park Avenue)?
A: No there are not. The only way you will be able to get custom headlights is if you make them yourself.

Might want to change this around, as their are plenty of aftermarket headlights available (OEM style), just not custom/retrofit ones.

[LeSabreUltra]

Might want to change this around, as their are plenty of aftermarket headlights available (OEM style), just not custom/retrofit ones.

That's true, I'll see if I can reword it.
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[00Beast]

Great thread Dan!! Might change what haro said to: Are there any custom aftermarket headlights? No, the only headlights available are OE replacements, anything but that will be custom made by you, or someone you pay to do it for you.

[SSEi95]

Oh wow.... I read this on my blackberry and it was a really good read.... looks even better with the formatting!! I may consider this for a sticky like Haro said. I have never been so intrigued about headlights before....

[J Wikoff]

I will have to disagree with including PIAA in the junk catagory. The set I have in my Bonne (dims and brights) have been in for 7 or 8 years, and are still a significant improvement over stock bulbs.

[LeSabreUltra]

I've also noticed in it person and with an old light meter. PIAA bulbs put out less measurable light than a standard GE bulb. This particular test was with an H4 bulb in my truck but the results will be the same over all bulb types.

PIAA along with Silverstar Ultra are okay at best in the sense that they do meet legal output specs (barely).

These bulbs work on the concept of whiter light being harsher on the eyes (and thus more noticeable) than yellow. While you see an improvement because things seem brighter in actuality they are putting less light on the road and you see less. What you do see is simply harsher on your eyes, thus giving you the impression of "wow, these things are bright!"

Think of it this way: All halogen bulbs emit yellow light. There is no way around it. They emit very little to no blue naturally. By applying a blue filter onto the bulb, the only light that is allowed out is blue along with a small proportion of other colors that fight their way through the filter. The blue steals light. PIAA and other companies make up for this by using an overdriven filament to push more light through, but the end result (to keep power consumption down) is that the bulbs BARELY make legal output specs.

If you want to read more, take a closer look at this article:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... white.html

Oh also, I'm all for this being stickied if it will help.
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[RJolly87]

Forget sticky, I would put this straight to Techinfo!

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

For HIR bulbs, the best bang for the buck comes with the HIR bulbs and a relay harness.

Another site to get HIR bulbs at: candlepower.com. I got the Philips 3rd gen HIR bulbs there. They're a little bit more powerful than the 2nd gen bulbs available at other retailers.

Good stock 9006 headlight upgrade:
Sylvania Xtra-Vision
Philips Vision Plus
Philips X-treme Power
Any clear glass +25 or +30 bulb.

Lastly: Replacing old bulbs with new will be an upgrade in lighting. Old bulbs get dimmer as they age.

[J Wikoff]

Which PIAA's was it you tested? I don't remember the exact model name anymore (extreme white, or super white, something like that, not plasma blue), but at the time, it was the PIAA set with the least blue coating. Parked next to a Olds 88 with Silverstar Ultras was a nearly literally night and day difference. There is no way I would put them in the same category. I haven't seen HIR bulbs to compare, so I can't comment on that, but the PIAA's I have really are a great set of bulbs and have lasted several years.

[LeSabreUltra]

They were labeled xtreme white plus.

I will agree with you that they are better than Silverstar Ultras, however. But any blue coating will reduce output.

The Xtreme Whites ended up being just below the output levels of a standard GE bulb I bought at Wal-Mart whereas the Silverstar Ultras were quite significantly less. All bulbs were relayed.

The end result being the extra white/blue light coming from the PIAA over the Silverstar Ultra makes your eyes think "bright!" when in reality there is less light being reflected off of stuff downroad and back at you, the driver. Additionally blue light tends to scatter more than yellow which causes glare in fog as well as the additional reflection from signs and road markers that PIAA and others claim. But there will be less reflection off of non reflective stuff like critters and people. The end result being, why spend so much on these bulbs which offer no performance improvement when you can have far better bulbs for half the price?
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[repinS]

Great post

[renchjeep]

OK, so I read all this AFTER buying eBay HID kits for my 94 bonne and the wife's 99 Crown Vic. Got the 9005/9006 kit for the Bonne, and the 9007 bi-xenon for the Vic. I first installed the 9005 hi-beams on my Bonne, figuring if they "sucked" or blew out, I would still have my Silverstar lowbeams+driving lights. They are nice and bright after the "warm-up" 2-5 seconds, but then either drop to a lower (still BETTER, BRIGHTER than my Silverstars, IMHO) light, or flicker ANNOYINGLY! I have now bought the "anti-flicker", "code cancelling" capacitors for all the HID kits I now have. Have not received the "capacitors" yet, will post again with my results. I am about $160.00 into this whole conversion so far. (BTW, we live in the hill country, with ZERO streetlights, 60 and 90-mile commutes daily/nightly, and lots of critters, so good headlights are a must-have!)

Not too bad, I think. If it all works out.

IF the capacitors do their job, and I am not blinding oncoming drivers, the whole project will be a success.

Time will tell............

I will let y'all know how it goes.

[00Beast]

Do you have the relay kits renchjeep? The stock wiring can cause the flickering...

[LeSabreUltra]

Some cars do need capacitors added for aftermarket HIDs to run properly. H-bodies generally don't, so if you're having flickering problems, even if the capacitor does temporarily relieve it, it's more or less a band-aid for an underlying issue (poor quality ballasts or bulbs). That is assuming of course that your HIDs are currently properly fitted with a relay harness.

Hopefully you picked 4300k or 5000k for your best vision.

Having been on the opposite side of both cars with HIDs however, you will be blinding other drivers unless you aim your lights straight down which pretty much defeats your whole purpose. Crown Victorias in particular have rather poor beam patterns and 9007 bixenon kits make no attempt to address the issue as the kits don't include a glare shield for the low beam.

Your Crown Victoria would be a perfect candidate for an HID projector retrofit, but that is a large undertaking.

My recommendation for you unless you find yourself satisfied with the HIDs is to opt for HIR 9012/9011 high/low bulbs for your Bonneville, and a set of these for your Crown Victoria:

http://store.candlepower.com/bfcopo90hbpo1.html

These, like the bulbs of the same type I mentioned in this thread above, offer near HIR levels of light performance with no additional power draw and are completely street legal.

They would be best coupled with a relay harness like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/p-P239007HW.html

For your Bonneville, you can use the HID relay harness you already have (assuming you do) for both the high and low beams. They will connect right up to the HIR bulbs.
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[LeSabreUltra]

I'd like to revoke my recommendation of supervtec and his XENTEC HID kits on ebay...Don't buy them! They have recently moved on to the "next generation ballast" which is worse than the last. It emits poorer light output than the last generation digital ballast. I experienced dim light output and brown coloration with my bulbs (signifying poor power input). Instead, I recommend VVME for your budget HID needs (http://www.vvme.com).

VVME's quality in my experience has been spotty though mostly positive. They deliver very quickly. The problems I have noticed (mostly flickering) have seemed to work their way out in a week or so. The S10 forum I frequent recommends them also.

My recommendations then for your budget HID ballasts/kits: DDM first if you are willing to wait, then VVME if you need them more quickly.

If you are willing to spend a little more, but want brand new QUALITY ballasts, I strongly recommend TRS (The Retrofit Source) stocked Morimoto digital ballasts if you are planning to retrofit. (these are equipped for D2S bulbs).
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/produc ... cts_id=160
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[crzydmnd72]

More about relays here. Interesting results that completely echo what Dan says about the relays.
http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech ... ghts.shtml

I may want to go poke a Fluke at mine soon and see what they are getting for voltage

[LeSabreUltra]

For sure, always relay with a good harness no matter what upgrade you're doing...

Updating this thread in regards to cheap HID parts sources. DDM has recently announced that they will no longer be selling HID kits, therefore the only kit I can personally recommend is VVME. Older Xentec kits work well too but I doubt you'll find any of those, the new ones are crap.
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[tyler.avis]

For sure, always relay with a good harness no matter what upgrade you're doing...

Updating this thread in regards to cheap HID parts sources. DDM has recently announced that they will no longer be selling HID kits, therefore the only kit I can personally recommend is VVME. Older Xentec kits work well too but I doubt you'll find any of those, the new ones are crap.
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Link as to where you got the information that DDM is no longer selling HID kits?

[LeSabreUltra]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1583933
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