Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
Hi there guys back for some more punishment from the old car!!!! Well i attempted to change the crank sensor tonight and thought i had the new one lined up pretty good from the old one and while tightening the balancer back on SNAP!!!! i assumed it was the fins on the back of the balancer didn't line up between the new crank sensor So my next question before i break another one is there i trick to getting it between the fins on the crank sensor or can it be adjusted after it's on???? The plastic dirt shield or whatever that is prevents any adjusting after the balancer is tightened all the way so what the hell do i have to cut a hole in the plastic ring so i can get at the bolt that tightens the crank sensor bracket so i can adjust it while running and then tighten it back up where it runs the best??? Thanks,
What I did was find a piece of scrap material that fit the gap between the sensor and the crank before I took the old one off.
It's too late to try that, so try putting it together loose without the plastic shield, get it lined up. Tighten the sensor up, then put the rest back on for good.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
Hi there.. Yah that would work i might even have to put the balancer back on all the way and try it and listen if it's rubbing.. could i just throw the plastic shield away or is it needed??? Thanks again..
J Wikoff wrote:What I did was find a piece of scrap material that fit the gap between the sensor and the crank before I took the old one off.
It's too late to try that, so try putting it together loose without the plastic shield, get it lined up. Tighten the sensor up, then put the rest back on for good.
I'd keep the shield. It keeps stuff from getting in there and wiping the sensor out.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
Yah i guess it would like rocks and roadkill!!!!! Well i didn't put it back on but i think i'll just pull the balancer off one more time and put her in,the sensor is pretty well set in position now and it runs good so pulling the balancer one more time shouldn't disrupt it. Thanks again for the info..
So my next question before i break another one is there i trick to getting it between the fins on the crank sensor or can it be adjusted after it's on???? The plastic dirt shield or whatever that is prevents any adjusting after the balancer is tightened all the way so what the hell 
do i have to cut a hole in the plastic ring so i can get at the bolt that tightens the crank sensor bracket so i can adjust it while running and then tighten it back up where it runs the best??? Thanks,
