Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
I can drive the car for about 20-30 mins before the car simply refuses to shift. After getting the transmission cooling lines replaced ($200 bucks down the tubes-literally ). Took it to a mechanic and he said it's probably the clutches in the transmission. Is he right or is there an issue that only applies to bonnies that I should be aware of? I only paid $500 for the ride so I'll buy another ride before I pay for the work.
I hope there's a cheap fix so I can keep this great car for just a little while longer.
I Talked to a second mechanic, and he confirmed the clutches are bad. I've recently come across someone that could install a new transmission for pretty cheap. Since I'd spend about $2k on a new ride, I might consider buying a used or rebuilt transmission and having him install it. Which transmission do I need?
...or should I just put the Bonnie out to pasture.
As willwren said, it would be helpful to spot your transmission fluid onto some kind of white napkin or paper towel. And even better, spot a fresh drop of new transmission fluid right next to it.
Bill Buttermore has just published an article in the TechInfo section of this website under "Care and Feeding" on transmission maintenance. For not much more than the cost of 6 quarts of fresh transmission fluid and a new filter, you can renew half the fluid in your transmission and maybe revitalize the rest of the fluid in your transmission.
According to Dave Norris (a professional transmission rebuilder that we know of), fresh transmission fluid can reduce friction in the friction-active areas of your transmission (sometimes more than you'd like, though). But if you only replace half the fluid, that's a good compromise. (All this assumes that your friction plates have gotten "sticky" and not just worn off. You may get some better idea of what's happened to your trans once you've dropped the pan and looked at what's collected in the bottom of it and on the magnet. Here, pics of your trans pan sludge posted back to your thread would help the "gearheads" advise you on your problem.)
That's likely to be the only low-cost "fix" that could possibly work. The chances are low that it will help, but the cost is low too.
If you decide to get a refreshed transmission, I would look up Dave Norris. Just post back and I will dig up his website for you.
Last edited by slug on Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i probably won't be able to do any spotting till this weekend, and since I live in an apartment, I can't look at the transmission pan, because it's against our lease to work on our cars here.
Most definitely interested in the Dave Norris stuff too.
Last edited by BennitoCruz on Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dave is highly regarded by one of our own members, who very expertly rebuilds GM transmissions on an "amateur" basis (meaning he's extremely good, but doesn't sell his products). After reading Dave's website, and also communicating with him personally, I am also very impressed. Dave is active in a Grand Prix forum.
). Took it to a mechanic and he said it's probably the clutches in the transmission. Is he right or is there an issue that only applies to bonnies that I should be aware of? I only paid $500 for the ride so I'll buy another ride before I pay for the work.
