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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:32 am 
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Year and Trim: 90 SSE
I've run into the same situation where my ABS master cylinder is flaking out again with a rock hard pedal. I really don't feel like floating $1200 to have it rebuilt and have seriously begun rethinking the whole conversion over to standard vacuum brakes. While I have compiled a number of breakdowns from other sites, I was curious if anyone on here has ever done it and could give me their own breakdown (pictures are always a plus =D). Regardless, I will be taking pictures throughout this process and compiling notes so that I can share this experience with everyone.

Mike

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:53 am 
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I have never done it and actually mine does not have the ABS.

IIRC it is just a matter of swapping out the module and MC and making the brake line connections.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:07 am 
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Location: Space Coast, or at least it used to be
Year and Trim: 03 SLE, 95 SE, 95 TS SE
I can't remember who did it.... But a guy got tired of these issues and installed a Non ABS system from another Bonneville...

If you want a 100% stock system 1991 would be the year to get parts from... The 91 Bonnevilles used the newer systems.. and the 91 ABS is a lot like the 92-95 units, really about the same thing...


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:12 pm 
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Year and Trim: 90 SSE
The switch from what I have read is quite easy. Remove old unit. Small mod to the hole on the abs brake pedal to accept the conventional rod. Install the booster and tie in the vacuum line from the block off on the plenum. Install a 4th brake line from the back to the mastercylinder as each wheel will have it's own line rather than the 3 with a "t" for the back 2 wheels. My only question and I'm still looking is for the brake fluid level sensor on the conventional and somehow tying it into the brake light on the dash.. I'll keep looking but I'll be doing the conversion in a month or so, when I do it I will be sure to take a ton of pictures and notes and I'll get something posted for the site. Cost for everything I'm figuring is going to be around $200.00 rather than going with the Teves MC rebuild at $1200.

Mike

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:12 pm 
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I have a spare Teves unit if you are interested.
sounds like your pump motor or pressure regulator went south.
posting.php?mode=edit&f=27&t=30803&p=306546

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Last edited by SSEBonne4evr on Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:12 pm 
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Year and Trim: 1990 Olds Touring Sedan
SSEBonne4evr do you still have the Teves ABS unit and would you be interested in selling it?
I have a 90 Olds Touring Sedan I parked in my garage about 15 years ago due to ABS problems. When I parked the car I was on my 2nd Teves unit. the first one was replaced while the car was still under warranty the second one was a $1000 back in 1995. I want to get the car back on the road again so I am going to do an engine swap and put a L67 Super Charged 3800 in to speed things up a little. It would be nice if the car stopped when I applied the brakes.
Thanks
Mark

SSEBonne4evr wrote:
I have a spare Teves unit if you are interested.
sounds like your pump motor or pressure regulator went south.

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Last edited by 90 TOURING SEDAN on Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:57 am 
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Year and Trim: 90 SSE
Well the conversion is going very smoothly. I ordered the vacuum booster and mastercylinder for a 90 bonneville w/out ABS from Rock Auto and with shipping it came to just over $100 for everything. I removed the old unit last night. First thing than I had to enlarge the hole that goes to the brake pedal pin as the vacuum actuator rod hole is smaller. The metal is pretty thin after doing this but all of the stress is from pushing and the rod is good and thick, the loop that is drilled out is simply the return and pretty much just holds the rod to the pedal pin.

Next we disconnected all of the fittings from the rubber hoses at all 4 corners of the car. I had recently been told that inspectors in NY State will fail cars now with compression unions on brake lines. Rather than take any chances, I just ran new 3/16" lines. A 25' roll from NAPA was just over $25 and you will need 2 coils. One coil will do both front and the left rear. The last will be for the right rear. All of my fitting broke loose after letting them sit with penetrating oil for about 5-10 minutes.

As a side note, I did go to a local junk yard and bought a standard mastercylinder out of an 89 Buick LeSabre. Believe it or not, I did this mainly for the 4 fittings off the mastercylinder. Each wheel has it's own line as there is no proportioning block on the 90. The proportioners on the mastercylinder mount to the 2 bottom holes. If you were to buy these straight up from GM they are about $80 apiece. I looked online and could not find them although they do come up periodically on ebay. I was unable to luck into an auction but after spending $25 for the whole mastercylinder assembly at a local yard, that was definitely the cheaper way. The mastercylinder fittings are also a pain in that each one is a different size. NAPA had 1 of the 4 I needed. I simply removed them off the old one, cleaned them up on a wire wheel and they are good to go for re use.

Tonight we will be installing the last line. Bench bleeding the mastercylinder and then bleeding the system out...

But I need some help from the group here.

I need to know which lines go to which. I would assume that the 2 proportioned fittings on the mastercylinder would go to the front brakes but I don't know for sure. Can anyone tell me in this way:

Looking at the side of the mastercylinder with the lines coming out. Please tell me where Left Top, Right Top, Lower Left Proportioner, Lower Right Proportioner go.

Thanks for any and all assistance.

Mike

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90 Pontiac Bonneville SSE
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:29 am 
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Off the top of my head, I know that the rear brakes are the proportioned lines, and are the two bottom ports on the master cylinder.

I also believe that the FR and RL brakes engage as a pair and the FL and RR bakes engage as a pair, and I think that the vertical pair of MC ports (upper port = front, lower proportioned port = rear) share a piston in the MC, as long as the pairs stay together it shouldn't matter which set of vertical ports they are on. Let somebody else chime in about which port goes to which brake to verify.

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