Removing Bottom of TB Column
- The Crunge II
- SLE Member

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- Year and Trim: 1996 SE
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Removing Bottom of TB Column
Is removing the bottom portion of the TB/MAF sensor column worth it for an L36?
1996 SE w/ magnaflow high flow cat, 180* Drilled T-Stat, intense FWI, PLIM, ER Rockers w/stock springs, 1 5/8ths primary pacesetter headers
- mylittleblackbird
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1999 SE - Location: Muscatine, IA
Re: Removing Bottom of TB Column
I would strongly advise against altering the MAF metering area. It will give you fits to no end as the calibration will no longer be correct, and I don't believe many if any people would be able to tune for it.
If you would like to modify your throttlebody, do so past the post, not at or before.
Another option would be to install an 96 L67 throttle body. It retains the vacuum line for your trans modulator.
Or you can get a 97-99 L67 throttle body, remove the freeze plug that blocks the vacuum port, install a nipple and run from that.
You will need to have your PCM modified to recognize the L67 MAF frequencies instead of the L36, if you choose that route.
If you would like to modify your throttlebody, do so past the post, not at or before.
Another option would be to install an 96 L67 throttle body. It retains the vacuum line for your trans modulator.
Or you can get a 97-99 L67 throttle body, remove the freeze plug that blocks the vacuum port, install a nipple and run from that.
You will need to have your PCM modified to recognize the L67 MAF frequencies instead of the L36, if you choose that route.
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- willwren
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Re: Removing Bottom of TB Column
I did it. TWICE. Bad results both times. Shave a flat on each side of the throttle shaft to decrease cross-sectional area, and clean up the bore a bit. Don't muck with the MAF support or the area where the throttle plate seals.

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- 95naSTA
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Re: Removing Bottom of TB Column
I wouldn't bother with the L36 TB.
This is what I did to a 99+ L67 TB a while back. The L67 TBs aren't bolt up and go as shown below.
If you do modify the area around the MAF sensor, you will need to recalibrate it via tuning.
This is what I did to a 99+ L67 TB a while back. The L67 TBs aren't bolt up and go as shown below.
I drilled out where the second vac port would be and added one since I have a 4t60-e too.95naSTA wrote:You have to fill inthe coolant ports with jb weld or some other epoxy. Then make a template ftom the UIM and port the rear of the TB to match the UIM. Then drill the bolt holes on the L67 TB down so you can move the up TB to line it up with the UIM.
Now the pics:
ported and jb welded:
Rough:
Polished:
Comparison to my old TB:
Now to show you what I'm talking about whne you have to drill out the bolt holes down...
Here is how it would sit if you don't:
There is a step up to the UIM
But, drilled out it looks like:
Tou can p&p the front too:
If you do modify the area around the MAF sensor, you will need to recalibrate it via tuning.

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Re: Removing Bottom of TB Column
Whoa, that's a heck of a port job there
. I know a couple of guys running ported L36 TB, and have no issues, but I think it is like skating on thin ice. You might get away with it, but who knows for how long. I have ported out a couple of L67 TB that work great but not as extensive as the photos above. So that might be an option, but I don't think I would mess with one unless you have one sitting around for fun just to try out.
2000 SLE










There is a step up to the UIM


