I wanted to touch back here and follow up. I replaced the fuel pump and it still does not run unless I give the fuel pump relay 12V. So I will find another 12V source in the rear fuse block that is hot during on/run to work around my PCM issue. I did test the wiring all the way back to the pin at ...

96 SSEi wrote:the assembly is mucho $ - they wanted 500 up here in Canada for oem

Rock Auto wants about 220 here in US.. that's still a stinger for a fuel pump..

If you get new, don't get the cheap chinese aftermarket junk. AC Delco or Delphi. I haven't had good luck selling used fuel pumps unless they come directly out of a running car. Sitting on the shelf and drying up usually ends up seizing the motor or bearings.

I was thinking of getting OEM AC ...

There is nothing wrong with hooking 12v (no fuse) directly to the pump to test it. Just bypass the car wiring completely, apply 12v and ground to the pump to verify it works.

i'm going to get it tested this weekend. If it is bad is this a part that is best purchased new or is a gently used OEM ...

You could try to run a direct hot wire 12V to the pump and see if the pump turns on, if not then, replace the pump.

I could do that but:
1) I don't have a fused jumper. If there is a short to ground or something wonky like that I would feel better about a fused jumper. I need to get out to the ...

Update:

It was wet in there...here is some nasty pictures..
https://i.imgur.com/68Ybiwx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qjXQ01U.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NuD9CpS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Nkxpf8s.jpg that little moisture absorber wasnt pulling his weight LOL
The bad:
I still do NOT have 12V at the relay. I ...

harofreak00 wrote:Dumb question, but you did try swapping the relay with another working one?

yes I did. i didnt change anything for the fuel system.

I read your original post more thoroughly and can see you're on the right track going through the order of operations. I've not heard of a PCM having an internal fault for the fuel pump relay control, so probably a short or break in that dark green/white control wire. You're on the right track ...

Here is some information. I think the pics should show up if viewed from a mobile device..Photobucket broke the internet..
I haven't done the swap..i just replaced mine with stock when the inevitable crack formed. Maybe consider the radiator for the Olds Aurora 3.5? there was some talk that it may ...

As I mentioned in our conversation, I'm still leaning towards the fuel pump module.
Would that cause no power to be coming in to the module? There is no voltage coming in or out of that module and the 12V relay signal is missing at the fuse block too. It may also be the module, but I'm not ...

Thanks for the reply. My next step was going to be to gut the car interior. It has a leak and there has been a lot of rain..maybe one of those wire connections on the floor board is full of the green crusties or something...I will check the wheel well too..

First of all the bad..the car sat for about 20 months because I am a lazy bonneville owner. Ok. When the car was parked, it started and ran fine.

Fast forward to today, the dead battery was replaced and now it is a cranking no start. I have no fuel pressure at the rail so that is the path that I am ...

Oh ok, well that makes it easy. To be honest, I was just assuming it did have one, since it was an Ei. It has every other sensor known to man. Great thanks for the info, I feel kinda dumb now

What about the coolant sensor? My Ei has that doesnt it? Is there a low coolant sensor variant on the Aurora radiator? I would like to order one of these...I need to replace my radiator soon.

Ok, wanted to update this post and ( hopefully ) close this topic out. Just got the car back from the dealer. They did the sensor replacement and C.A.S.E. learn procedure, and the car seems to be running great again. Also I thought that I would add some info. I was also having "SERVICE STABILITY ...

The lines are pretty brittle after a while, I broke mine. This is definitely a job for Andrew (harofreak00). You can get the motor and the tubing from him. installation is pretty easy. The tubing will be harder than the motor in my opinion. There is just more to take off to get to it in the first ...

I don't think it is the ICM. The car runs and idles good hot or cold. Just randomly will shudder and then tach drop out. I think that the shudder is the misfire from losing the crank signal, but the computer has no codes stored at all. It sure is a chin scratcher.

Thats sort of what I figured as well. The TACH gets the signal from the ICM, which cleans up a signal from the Crank Position Sensor. So for the tach to drop out like that it means Crank Position sensor, ICM, PCM or stepper motor. The ICM is firing the coils or the car would not be running right ...

So far this has happened twice. Both times after the car has run for a while, the car will shudder and the tach reading will go to 0. All other guages read normal and the car seems to run fine. I have just replaced plugs and wires ( it was just time for it) and while i was in there, i verified good ...

I'm with Bugsi. Sounds like a firing order problem. Also double check that you got all those motor and trans grounds in tight and clean..a loose\ dirty ground can make a waste spark system go all kinds of squrrely.