Alright! Got it done!

Well, there is definitely a 1000% improvement in the noise level. However, there is still noise. Sometimes, especially while driving through parking lots and the like at low speeds and turning the wheel to the left, it makes the occasional squeak.

I thought I heard a scraping ...

Good to know, I'll pick one of those up.

I did some reading online. So I need to take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir so the piston stays down?

I got it!

I went and bought a full set of pads, and while I was replacing the front passenger side, I noticed something funny: the caliper mount was shaking around! The bolts were seized too, it took alot of PB blaster and elbow grease to un-seize them. After re-tightening the noise is gone :D it ...

Yeah haha, I was starting to worry that it was a stuck caliper too. Looks like I've got some pads to replace. May as well, they're old. Is there supposed to be some kind of return spring on the pads, by the way? When I took the wheel and caliper off a few weeks ago to remove the wheel hub, I was ...

Hi,

As it states. The second my wheels start moving, I get this metal-on-metal terrible squealing noise. My car is terrifying to drive as a result. I got a new job and I'm finally getting paid this friday, so I will have money to fix it, i would rather not take it to a shop though, because I'd like ...

We got it, thanks guys. Dad insisted on using another puller, it took at least an hour of us tightening it,pounding the edges of the hub, and tightening it some more(after heating it) before it started to come free. The spindle was bone dry though, no grease whatsoever.

Hi there,

I've got a stubborn wheel hub. It's past bad, needs to be changed ASAP, and it also appears to be practically fused to the axle spindle. Yes, I've removed the axle nut, and the 3 hub nuts. I put a wheel hub puller on it(the thing with the 3 arms) and put it on so tight, it snapped one of ...

bob, where are the grounds you speak of?

fritcr, we jumpered the relay. Starts right up.

redzmonte, we have had problems with the terminals before, but as far as I know the offending cables were replaced.

Archon, we have been looking at that switch, seems like it could be causing the no start ...

Well, wet just makes me think of the oil leak I've got. Front is fixed, still leaks in the rear though. Could it be the oil got on something?

EDIT: Also, is it safe to drive for now? I wanted to take it on a long drive today.

I drove the car around for a bit. It ran great, until I put it in park. The dash gauges started bouncing around, including the tachometer, and it wasn't just the readings, I could hear the engine sputter and complain as its RPMs dipped way below normal. I left the car and went into the house to grab ...

We did just that, Mike, and were able to start the car. Car runs fine, haven't tried taking it for a drive yet though. For now, we've jerry rigged a push button to force-engage the starter while we determine the problem. The PCM is not sending a signal to engage the starter, and we don't know why ...

As I've stated, the security system is not tripped, the security light does NOT stay on when you turn the key.

Sorry 'bout that, I read wdudetocool's post as yours.
its alright, I was just getting frustrated because of how long this has gone on. Someone told me it could be the crank sensor. How ...

As I've stated, the security system is not tripped, the security light does NOT stay on when you turn the key.

Well, OK, I see that, but that is it.

Someone told me about this 'security re-learn procedure' that I may need to do. I don't know why, I didn't touch anything electric besides the plug wires. Anyway, I attempted this procedure: http://www.intense-racing.com/sec_relearn.shtml
and it did nothing. I ...

When you turn the key to the 'on' position, the SES, security, and SVS lights go on for a few seconds, then all go off at once. I never see it flashing.

I already tried my spare key.

I have no idea if its the NSS. We just ruled out the security system, at least I'm pretty sure we did, because the security light on the dashboard goes off after a few seconds of the key being in the on position. The NSS is the only other possibility I can thing of ...

I keep hearing one way or the other....but where is the neutral safety switch exactly? On or in the transmission?

Umm well when you're sitting in the car, the security light responds to locking/unlocking the doors, when unlocked the light flashes, when locked it stays solid.

Well, we spent hours checking spark plugs and relays, but no dice. I believe we decided the starter relay was clicking, but there was some confusion as to which relay was the starter.

How do you nail down problems with the security system, or VATS as I've heard it called?

Does the security system engage/disengage without the remote locks?