Did you double check that nothing got unhooked while changing the valve covers or pump?
Or how about any vacuum lines?

You checked for fuel and spark, how did you go about this?

You need an A/C delete pulley. I'm almost certain you can't just use a shorter belt. Not sure if anybody else makes or sells the pulley bracket, but you can get one from ZZP performance, here's a link.
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/2 ... elete.aspx

With the shift kit I would suggest an external trans cooler. This also helps lower and maintain a lower trans temp, which is healthier for your trans.
For the shift kit it really is only taller sleeves and firmer springs. This can be pieced together rather easily too, for others out there.

This is ...

There isn't much room in front of that stock inlet location, the headlight pretty much takes all the space. Plus the hole isn't very big right there. This is why you have to relocate the charcoal canister. It gives you a perfect hole to slip through, for your air filter to get all the fresh air it ...

This is kind of what I'm picturing that you're describing not quite sure though.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/introductions-for-new-members/topic34063.html?hilit=cold%20air%20intake

Here is what I did to make my set up. I run mine year round, which includes the past few days that were ...

It wouldn't be any harder than tearing the whole interior out (seats, carpet, center console) like when fixing/hunting for leaks. You just have to go to a yard and pull the seats, the control panel from the center console and ALL associated wiring. I think there is a power point that is already ...

I'm thinking of just doing the rubber mounts. I believe the bolts and washers/retainers are still solid. This car came from Daytona, Florida, so rust is very minimal on the under carriage. I have been oiling those locations to help keep them rust free and able to loosen when needed and not spin ...

It's been done a ton of times and covered and posted too many times. But as of recently I don't think anything has been updated concerning cost. I'm finally biting the bullet and doing everything for this rust belt maintenance item. The cost for all these parts has gone up considerably. Granted I ...

Well, I started with a new replacement intake. I just wiped it down and sprayed it with aluminum color engine paint. It's some what durable but you still have to be careful. The paint doesn't actually bond to the manifold, so it can scrap off easily. Just requires a little care and extra time when ...

Here's mine, still looks the same after 2 yrs of use.

I'd run hot water through it while the freeze plug is out of it.
The brown sludge loosens a little when heated up. I reversed flushed mine with straight hot water. Of coarse I have hot water in my garage, but you could also run a hose off your water heater if need be.
The more of the sludge you ...

Try starting it with the MAF unplugged. It should start and run even with the MAF unplugged if this is the culprit.

Check out this link, its worth a check.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... ge#p261954

Plus I'd just leave the interior/carpet out until ALL the leaks are found.
It took me several tries and weeks to get it to the point of staying dry.

Well, unless you bought the car really cheap, you probably should just fix it. Otherwise the hit you'll have to take to get rid of it might be to great and painful.
It just depends on a few factors, its all up to you.
At this point if the car is in pretty good condition I'd fix the tranny and ...

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 37511.html
I think these are about your only option, these being this manufacturer. Our cars weren't exactly well supported by the aftermarket, and especially now as they continue to just get older.

It's impossible, the area for the rear wheel is what stops the glass from being able to go down any further. If you stand back and look at the door and picture the glass trying to go straight down you'll see it run into the wheel well.

You could buy a kit, but why not make it yourself? I followed the instruction in the link for a homemade shift kit. It details all the parts necessary so that you end up with basically the same kit you could buy from a vendor, just a lot cheaper.

This is the one I followed and few other members ...

This is merely a thought, what if you cleared over the vinyl to help seal the edges and possibly keep them from peeling.
Another thought is painting the recesses black so it would blend in a little better.

I'm not sure if any of these ideas would work or if there even feasible.